Hi Thomas! How much are they? Thomas Russell <trussellpiano at isunet.net> Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org 12/15/2006 07:43 AM Please respond to College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> To caut at ptg.org cc Subject [CAUT] Bridge pin removal tool This is a tool I recently acquired. I haven't used it for bridge pins yet, but I plan to soon. http://www.excaliburtools.com/nail_pliers.html Thomas Russell RPT Iowa State University On Dec 14, 2006, at 2:42 AM, caut-request at ptg.org wrote: Send caut mailing list submissions to caut at ptg.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to caut-request at ptg.org You can reach the person managing the list at caut-owner at ptg.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of caut digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Bridge pin removal (Fred Sturm) 2. Re: Bridge pin removal (Tim Coates) 3. Re: Bridge pin removal (Greg Newell) 4. was bridge pin removal, now Lehman tuning (Anne Acker) 5. Re: Bridge pin removal (Ron Nossaman) 6. Re: Bridge pin removal (Greg Newell) 7. Re: Bridge pin removal (Greg Newell) 8. Re: Bridge pin removal (Ron Nossaman) 9. Re: Bridge pin removal (Greg Newell) 10. Re: Bridge pin removal (Greg Newell) 11. Re: Bridge pin removal (jack houweling) 12. Emailing: bridge pin remover (jack houweling) From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> Date: December 13, 2006 7:41:29 PM CST To: caut <caut at ptg.org> Subject: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Hi all, I wonder if anyone has some good advice for removing stubborn bridge pins. Beyond grabbing them with vice grips, grunting and cursing <g>. I'm thinking heat, but don't want to cause too much damage to the hole. Would one heat with a soldering iron, say, 15 seconds (of course depending on temperature of iron), then let the pin cool before pulling? That's what I am planning, but thought I'd see if anyone had a better plan. BTW, my reason for removing solidly attached pins is to replace with new, due to zinging sounds. I found one loose enough to pull, and it had the definite common wear profile, with a sharp feel to the finger. Meaning a nice bit of metal shaving sitting there. I pulled a few unisons of strings, dressed the capo, and restrung, and the zings had reduced but not disappeared. So I'm hoping bridge pins will be the magic cure. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico From: Tim Coates <tcoates1 at sio.midco.net> Date: December 13, 2006 9:34:46 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Fred, Heat works well. Along with heat, make a nail puller by running a large bastard file through the jaws of a large front cutter wire cutter. A nail puller is essentially a large front cutting wire cutters that won't cut. After laying a cabinet scraper on the strings to make a platform for leverage, use the nail puller to remove the pin. Pulling a little at a time and resetting the puller lower on the pin prevents damaging the hole. If you do damage the hole just dowel and redrill. Or, just grunt it out with vise grips. Worn bridge pins can cause zings. That's why I wait until at least the fourth chip tune to do the final leveling of bridge pins. Tim Coates On Dec 13, 2006, at 7:41 PM, Fred Sturm wrote: Hi all, I wonder if anyone has some good advice for removing stubborn bridge pins. Beyond grabbing them with vice grips, grunting and cursing <g>. I'm thinking heat, but don't want to cause too much damage to the hole. Would one heat with a soldering iron, say, 15 seconds (of course depending on temperature of iron), then let the pin cool before pulling? That's what I am planning, but thought I'd see if anyone had a better plan. BTW, my reason for removing solidly attached pins is to replace with new, due to zinging sounds. I found one loose enough to pull, and it had the definite common wear profile, with a sharp feel to the finger. Meaning a nice bit of metal shaving sitting there. I pulled a few unisons of strings, dressed the capo, and restrung, and the zings had reduced but not disappeared. So I'm hoping bridge pins will be the magic cure. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico From: Greg Newell <gnewell at ameritech.net> Date: December 13, 2006 9:44:05 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Fred and list, Personally I'd like to see a small vise grip attached to a slide hammer. I'd heard someone was using something like that but have been unable to get the supply houses to make one. Anyone have a source? Greg Newell At 08:41 PM 12/13/2006, you wrote: Hi all, I wonder if anyone has some good advice for removing stubborn bridge pins. Beyond grabbing them with vice grips, grunting and cursing <g>. I'm thinking heat, but don't want to cause too much damage to the hole. Would one heat with a soldering iron, say, 15 seconds (of course depending on temperature of iron), then let the pin cool before pulling? That's what I am planning, but thought I'd see if anyone had a better plan. BTW, my reason for removing solidly attached pins is to replace with new, due to zinging sounds. I found one loose enough to pull, and it had the definite common wear profile, with a sharp feel to the finger. Meaning a nice bit of metal shaving sitting there. I pulled a few unisons of strings, dressed the capo, and restrung, and the zings had reduced but not disappeared. So I'm hoping bridge pins will be the magic cure. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico From: a.acker at comcast.net (Anne Acker) Date: December 13, 2006 10:08:39 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: [CAUT] was bridge pin removal, now Lehman tuning Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> Hi all, hi Fred, Thought you might like to know I was just talking with Brad Lehman and he was interested to hear of your PTG Journal article. At his request, I'm mailing a photocopy. Brad is extremely intelligent in many fields, a highly talented performer and a really nice fellow. He has two harpsichords I built for him when I was in northern Virginia still. I found your checking with thirds rather interesting. I can tune a harpsichord in about 15 minutes or less with this temperament, and I never listen to thirds beyond checking the final F-A. Isn't the whole point of the method that you just whip around the 5ths? The thirds take care of themselves. I'm very happy you published this. While there is a huge amount of disagreement and controversy over this tuning, it is really very nice, very usable, and very fast to lay on an instrument. The only temperament I find faster is 1/4 comma meantone. I highly recommend you all read this, and then go find the original online on Brad's website, which is nicely referenced in the article. best and back to harpsichord building here, Anne From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> Date: December 13, 2006 10:24:22 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Fred and list, Personally I'd like to see a small vise grip attached to a slide hammer. I'd heard someone was using something like that but have been unable to get the supply houses to make one. Anyone have a source? Greg Newell Fred, Greg, and all the ships at sea, The slide hammer works great. A cheap dent puller for the slide weight (start with Harbor Freight or the like), and a rod that can be threaded to fit the Vise-Grip, and you're there. Easy enough to make, and very effective. Ron N From: Greg Newell <gnewell at ameritech.net> Date: December 13, 2006 10:47:52 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>, College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell At 11:24 PM 12/13/2006, Ron Nossaman wrote: Fred and list, Personally I'd like to see a small vise grip attached to a slide hammer. I'd heard someone was using something like that but have been unable to get the supply houses to make one. Anyone have a source? Greg Newell Fred, Greg, and all the ships at sea, The slide hammer works great. A cheap dent puller for the slide weight (start with Harbor Freight or the like), and a rod that can be threaded to fit the Vise-Grip, and you're there. Easy enough to make, and very effective. Ron N From: Greg Newell <gnewell at ameritech.net> Date: December 13, 2006 10:47:52 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>, College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell At 11:24 PM 12/13/2006, Ron Nossaman wrote: Fred and list, Personally I'd like to see a small vise grip attached to a slide hammer. I'd heard someone was using something like that but have been unable to get the supply houses to make one. Anyone have a source? Greg Newell Fred, Greg, and all the ships at sea, The slide hammer works great. A cheap dent puller for the slide weight (start with Harbor Freight or the like), and a rod that can be threaded to fit the Vise-Grip, and you're there. Easy enough to make, and very effective. Ron N From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> Date: December 13, 2006 11:09:21 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell Hi Greg, I just chose a rod size that would fit the Vise-Grip. Interestingly enough, the slide weight fit over it just like it did the bigger rod that it was originally made for. Go figure... <G> One end of the rod screws into the Vise-Grip (with a wing nut to lock it), and the other end has a double nut to act as a stop for the slide. The sloppy slide fit still hammers just fine. Ron N From: Greg Newell <gnewell at ameritech.net> Date: December 13, 2006 11:08:47 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>, College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Ron, you know your getting too tired when the "smack you upside the head obvious just isn't obvious anymore. Off to bed. Thanks for the help. Greg At 12:09 AM 12/14/2006, Ron Nossaman wrote: Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell Hi Greg, I just chose a rod size that would fit the Vise-Grip. Interestingly enough, the slide weight fit over it just like it did the bigger rod that it was originally made for. Go figure... <G> One end of the rod screws into the Vise-Grip (with a wing nut to lock it), and the other end has a double nut to act as a stop for the slide. The sloppy slide fit still hammers just fine. Ron N From: Greg Newell <gnewell at ameritech.net> Date: December 13, 2006 11:08:47 PM CST To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>, College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Ron, you know your getting too tired when the "smack you upside the head obvious just isn't obvious anymore. Off to bed. Thanks for the help. Greg At 12:09 AM 12/14/2006, Ron Nossaman wrote: Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell Hi Greg, I just chose a rod size that would fit the Vise-Grip. Interestingly enough, the slide weight fit over it just like it did the bigger rod that it was originally made for. Go figure... <G> One end of the rod screws into the Vise-Grip (with a wing nut to lock it), and the other end has a double nut to act as a stop for the slide. The sloppy slide fit still hammers just fine. Ron N From: "jack houweling" <jackhouweling at dccnet.com> Date: December 14, 2006 2:38:31 AM CST To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Greg, Fred, Here is a bridge pin remover I made. Easy enough for anyone to make. First insert a threaded rod to fit the vise grips. I then put a metal sleeve around the threaded rod, this will make it easier for the weight to slide and is gentler on the hands. Then ad a couple washers and nuts. Works fine. Jack Houweling ---- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell at ameritech.net> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>; "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:47 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bridge pin removal Ron, My question is; have you welded the dent puller slide hammer to the threaded screw of the vise grip or what? The dent puller I found that was close to the right size was still too large a diameter rod to thread down to the vise grip size. Maybe you use more robust dies than I do. :-) all the best, Greg Newell At 11:24 PM 12/13/2006, Ron Nossaman wrote: Fred and list, Personally I'd like to see a small vise grip attached to a slide hammer. I'd heard someone was using something like that but have been unable to get the supply houses to make one. Anyone have a source? Greg Newell Fred, Greg, and all the ships at sea, The slide hammer works great. A cheap dent puller for the slide weight (start with Harbor Freight or the like), and a rod that can be threaded to fit the Vise-Grip, and you're there. Easy enough to make, and very effective. Ron N -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.18/586 - Release Date: 12/13/2006 6:13 PM From: "jack houweling" <jackhouweling at dccnet.com> Date: December 14, 2006 2:41:58 AM CST To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> Subject: [CAUT] Emailing: bridge pin remover Reply-To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments: bridge pin remover Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your e-mail security settings to determine how attachments are handled. <bridge pin remover.jpg> _______________________________________________ caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20061215/edf2331b/attachment.html
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