Not to rain on anyones party or anything... but my experience simply does not bear out any but number 3 below. 1: The top of the hammer shank bit :) Depends entirely on the length of the tail. If that's to short then you have a problem here. Better IMHO is the relationship between the bottom of the tail and the top check at proper letoff. Top of the check should be 2 mm above bottom of tail. 2: Rougher the tail the worse in my book.. that is to say it should not be slick and glazed.. .but otherwise a smooth tail moves into check better and creates more tension on the check wire. I always smooth the leading (bottom) edge of the tail.... but it (the edge itself) shouldnt bite into the check anyways. 4: I have not experienced that a rep spring tension that creates a solid under a second rise in any hammer anywhere has ever caused me a checking problem. Sorry.. but just has never happened. All the above apply to all levels of play. And all of these are taught at both Hamburg C&A academy and the Yamaha academy at Hamamatsu. Good points made about the rep-spring hanging up in the groove in other posts tho. Cheers, and continued Happy Happies ! RicB 1. The top of the hammer shank at rest should be at the same height of a line one third of the way from the top of the check. 2. The tails should be rough and curved. A tip I got from Kent a couple of years ago, is that the lower edge of the tail is sharp. By filing that smooth, and taking the edge off, will help with checking. 3. The check should be square to the tail. 4. The rep spring should just barely raise the hammer. I think all of these things combined will make for good checking. Contrary to what I thought before, I don't think the resistance of the balancier is really a factor. Happy Holidays, everyone.
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