[CAUT] TIP OF THE YEAR!

[kpiano]

I'll try your way. First my partner should have all the shanks traveled the other way and she is 
meticulous. Then when I get back and we finish the reg, we have to pull the stack to do some 
minor leading and I'll check the job your way. The square sits a little back from the hammers 
but if you are level headed and and don't have the shakes it is an easy sight. I use a speed 
square or a large machinists square because it stands on the bench without falling over. After 
traveling a sample, you turn the square around for a quick visual check to make sure the 
bench is level. You get the same "reading, hopefully. Having the stack screwed to the frame 
on the reg bench would seem to duplicate the conditions in the piano better but I'll see when 
I do the check your way. I'll let you know any discrepencies or not. 
By having two samples attached to the stick, it averages the up down motion to perfect. I find 
it hard to believe you can see the lateral movement of 1/2 mm or less without some sort of 
reference points under the hammer heads. Hard to see that small of a movement. Then if the 
stack flexes as you rotate it because maybe the tips of the brackets aren't all in a line or 
something. 

I explore all the avenues, back streets and all.

Keith

On Thu, 28 Dec 2006 20:23:15 -0700, Fred Sturm wrote
> On 12/28/06 1:25 PM, "kpiano" <kpiano at goldrush.com> wrote:
> 
> > Turning the stack over is a good way to do a quick check but for the traveling
> > I like Spurlocks
> > method. The stack doesnt have to be removed or turned over to check the
> > results. You travel the end
> > hammers of a section. I use a square sitting on a flat bench and turn the
> > square around to check.
> > Take an 1/8 x 1/2 stick the length of a section and with modified clothes
> > pins, attach the stick
> > under the shanks with the clothes pins. The stick has marks on it or you can
> > make reference marks as
> > you go with a pencil. Pretty soon there is not a spot on the stick without a
> > reference mark. I draw
> > a pencil line next to the shaft and you can see movements of a lines width. I
> > use a long screw
> > driver about the mid point of the stick to raise and lower the shanks through
> > the range. When you
> > are done, stand the shanks up and admire how evenly spaced they are.   (and
> > the hammers dont get dirty)
> > 
> > Keith Roberts
> > 
> Hi Keith,
>     The dirty hammers comment is well taken. I often use a strip of cloth or
> paper to rest the hammers on for the upside down traveling. Should have
> mentioned that. Although I am usually doing traveling prior to shaping, so
> it doesn't really matter much.
>     I'm a bit puzzled as to how you set up the square as your reference
> point for the shanks without removing the stack. Aren't the keys and checks
> in the way? With stack removed, I can see it. I used to do that to
> pre-travel shanks before hanging hammers.
>     As for lifting with the strip of scribed wood attached to a section,
> hey, whatever works for you go with it. I'm sure you can get good results
> watching a shank move relative to a sharp pencil line, though it does mean
> looking at each shank individually with eye in just the right angle, doesn't
> it? I find that having the hammers all facing me, and just looking for
> lateral movement, is a much more efficient use of time and effort. And it
> definitely isn't just for a "quick check." With a practiced eye, I can do
> far finer work that way than anything I have ever seen.
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> University of New Mexico