Nice idea! I believe one could also grind away a little bit of the plate to get clearance. Ed S. -----Original Message----- >From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net> >Sent: Feb 11, 2006 7:46 PM >To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> >Subject: Re: [CAUT] 1098 slight redesign > >> Hi Ron, >> >> Could you elaborate just a bit for me on the vertical >> (horizontal) hitches? >> "Building the bass bridge a few millimeters taller and >> putting in vertical (horizontal) hitches would likely >> help too. " >> Does this mean cutting/grinding off the normal slanted >> hitch; drilling a hole and welding in a 90 degree >> hitch pin? Akin to the accujust type? > >Hi Bob, >No welding, just drilling a hole and driving in the roll pin. >Yes, like the Baldwin system (vertical in a grand, horizontal >in an upright) only it doesn't need to be that big in >diameter. I've found 3/16" works fine. > > >> The taller bridge is for increased downbearing >> possibilities in the bass, or more mass/impedance? >> >> Thanks, >> Bob Hull > >The taller bridge is to let the string loop go up on the pin a >bit to get it out of contact with the bass riser (where the >hitches are) to get the benefit of the non-restrictive >termination. An English loop on a standard hitch pin is like >nailing the bridge down to the floor if the back scale is >short, but they'll pivot on a vertical pin and let the bridge >move. It also lets you fiddle with more or less downbearing >some after the strings are on, to see what works best. No >magic, just mechanics and geometry. > >Ron N >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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