[CAUT] Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of

Bdshull@aol.com Bdshull@aol.com
Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:30:59 EST


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Hi, Alan,

I was in the middle of doing one of these jobs - not in the shop, but on the 
dining room table - when Isaac Sadigursky picked me up - we were riding 
together to teach at the AZ convention.   My wife was helping (she's faster than me, 
and I was so happy, since she won't do it but once in a blue moon  - that's 
about once every three years).   Isaac saw the setup (I was replacing the 
flanges) and he said, "Your wasting all your time!  You can do this job in a couple 
of hours"  You know Isaac.   

He had attended a class at an annual convention and had learned to do the 
whole thing leaving the butts on and taking off the dampers.

The key to it was to use a dental scraping tool to clean the slots quickly, 
to precut the cord accurately and quickly (he wrapped it around a suitably 
sized cylinder and cut them all at the same time very quickly), and, I think, 
using CA glue.

I still have to get that dental scraper...And I'm going to call Isaac again 
when I do the next job.  

The last several jobs I've used Tokiwa flanges, which is OK but the traveling 
is not fun, you have to file the hammers because you'll never get the 
hammer/string alignment back exactly (you might be filing anyway of course), and, 
well, those old Yamaha flanges are still really good flanges.....

Have fun!

Bill Shull

He In a message dated 2/18/2006 6:58:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
reggaepass@aol.com writes:
Hi All,

This Monday I will replace all of the hammer return spring slings on an older 
Yamaha U3.  Yamaha graciously provided the cord material.  Someone advised 
removing all of the dampers and leaving the hammers on for the operation.  
However, looks to me like it would be rather tricky to get the glue and the right 
length of cord in the right place in the hammer flange slots with the hammers 
still on the rail.  My current plan is to leave the dampers, but remove all of 
the hammers so they may be handled individually.

Anybody out there worked through this to their satisfaction?  Got a solvent 
that works better than alcohol for loosening up the old glue?  For installing 
the new cords, have you used CA, hide glue, what-have-you?  

Any and all input is welcome, all the more so if it is before Monday morning.

Have a good weekend,

Alan Eder, RPT

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