[CAUT] RE : key bushing removal

Paul T Williams pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu
Mon Nov 6 12:46:54 MST 2006


Hi Willem,

Don't you let the wood dry before installing new bushings?  That is, if 
you're steaming them out....

Paul



Willem Blees <wblees at bama.ua.edu> 
Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
11/06/2006 12:30 PM
Please respond to
College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>


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Re: [CAUT] RE :  key bushing removal






Richard

I do have a problem, at times, with a button coming loose. But I don't 
think it is such a big deal. A little super glue and the button is 
back in place. 

On some balance rail bushings where the felt is actually underneath 
the button, I use a thin screw driver to remove the felt. It takes a 
little longer, but have not had much trouble with it. 

I use Spurlock's cauls and it takes me about 2 hours to remove, and 
rebush a front or balance rail. If I do the balance rail in the 
morning, I can do the front rail late in the afternoon, and by next 
morning, after I trim, I'm ready to install the keys. 

Wim 
Willem Blees, RPT
Piano Tuner/Technician
School of Music
University of Alabama
Tuscaloosa, AL USA


Quoting "rwest1 at unl.edu" <rwest1 at unl.edu>:

> Wim:
> 
> I used to use that method, but one time the bushings were 
> particularly stubborn, so much so that steaming out the bushings was 
> 
> also loosening the glue joint holding the button to the key.  Since 
> 
> then I've used the felt-plugs-in-the-mortise method. I like that the 
> 
> bushings come out easily, but it's also easy to get too much water in
> 
> the plug and key.  I've also tried dampening the bushings and the 
> using the hot (as in soldering iron hot) brass bushing remover.  I 
> didn't have much luck with that.
> 
> What are the opinions on the best bushing removal method?  Are there 
> 
> any other methods out there that are less apt to cause trouble?  I 
> get a good final result, but I'm just not very happy with how I get 
> 
> there.
> 
> Also the big reason why I like hot hide glue is that it provides a 
> good, long-lasting glue joint that lets go when you want it to. In a 
> 
> university setting that's a great feature.
> 
> I hope this isn't too basic for this esteemed list.
> 
> Richard West
> 
> 
> On Nov 6, 2006, at 10:59 AM, Willem Blees wrote:
> 
> > Quoting Cy Shuster <cy at shusterpiano.com>:
> >
> >> How do you get 'em out when you rebush?  That's the downside of
> >> Titebond...
> >>
> >> --Cy--
> >
> > I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier time
> > getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the other
> > glues some of the factories use.
> >
> > Wim
> >
> >
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Willem Blees" <wblees at bama.ua.edu>
> >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
> >> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:17 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings
> >>
> >>
> >>> Why bother with sticks and brushes? I use tightbond and put it
> on
> >> with
> >>> my fingers.
> >>>
> >>> Wim
> >>
> >
> >
> > Willem Blees, RPT
> > Piano Tuner/Technician
> > School of Music
> > University of Alabama
> > Tuscaloosa, AL USA
> 





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