[CAUT] Key bottoms (was Re: key-easing pliers?)

[Fred Sturm]

On Jul 26, 2007, at 11:46 AM, Jim Busby wrote:
> Fred,
>
> One difference/question I have is - isn’t it easier to insert the  
> proper sizing cauls, then turn the set upside down and insert the  
> BR pins (the cauls won’t let the pins fall through), then add  
> sizing fluid? After they dry, ream the mortise so the “foot” of the  
> hole is the exact thickness.
Takes a long time to insert those balance pins in each hole, and then  
pull them out later (I don't have a bunch of student helpers, so a  
few seconds here and there on each little procedure add up). I'm  
"reaming" with a drill bit, which doesn't remove as much wood as a  
real reamer, and maybe leaves a bit of "uncut splinters" (we're  
talking fairly microscopic) to hold glue if I need to size later.  
That's my reasoning, anyway. And I think it leaves a more stable  
condition than just putting in BR pins and letting the wood conform  
to them, if your holes are too small to begin with. I'm closer to  
having the right amount of wood (in this dimension, not to be  
confused with the reaming you are talking about above). Making the  
hole exactly the size of the pin will require a bit of easing. So I  
use one sizing caul, which is heated. The heat increases the size of  
the balance pin in the caul from .146" to .147", and the heat helps  
size the wood - make the size relatively permanent. It puts the hole . 
001" larger than the pin, very nicely and consistently. (Glue-sizing  
to make the hole smaller where needed is a separate part of the  
procedure, done only to holes that are too large).
> Replace them on the Keyframe to check BR fit and fix pulley keys.
That's a lot of time and work. I like to leave the keys in the clamp,  
and bring the balance pin to the key. I can feel that pin going into  
the hole very precisely, and also feel if there is any play in any  
direction..
> Many times pulley keys are no longer an issue with the glue sizing  
> formula. BTW I use a much diluted (12/1 or so) Elmer’s glue for  
> sizing. Ron N. tells me that this is the only place on a piano  
> where he uses that glue. (Thanks Ron) There is no sound, click,  
> etc. with Elmer’s glue as there is with PVCE, Hot Hide, and or  
> other glues.
>
>
>
> Baldassin taught me to add this extra step (it really doesn’t take  
> long) of placing the keys back on the frame BEFORE the bushings are  
> in so that you can work the BR holes w/o “false readings” from  
> overly tight new bushings. It takes about 10 – 15 minutes longer  
> but the total focus on the BR hole pays big dividends, IMO. Here is  
> when I deal with the pulley keys because now you’re sure of which  
> ones weren’t fixed by the glue sizing.
Rick B is certainly correct in wanting to separate bottom hole from  
bushings, so one doesn't mask the other. I think I do it with a lot  
less time and effort. Putting a loose pin into the hole removes the  
factor of the weight of the key. All that lead can mask a lot of  
problems.
> Anyway, just a bit more to consider for your book... Who knows?  
> Marriott’s success, he said, was to “write out every tiny process  
> and revise it in writing until nothing more could be perfected,  
> then get all your employees to do it THAT way.”
I don't like having employees other than myself. That's one reason I  
am in this business <G>.
> (I vote for you to write that book, sometime before your beard is  
> entirely gray?? You and Ron. Oh well, Ron…))
I don't think there's much chance of me compiling and writing in book  
form. But if anyone else wants to do that, and make use of what I  
have posted from time to time, that would be fine with me. Have at it  
with my compliments.
> High regards,
>
> Jim
Regards,
Fred
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