One more little detail to make this repair more convenient. As outlined, there is a problem of the knot wanting to ³untie itself² until it has been brought to tension. The U part wants to slip back out of the loop. To stop that happening, before making the U bend, make a small bend as close to the end of that wire as you can, then make the U bend in the opposite direction. You will end up with a U that has a little curve at the end. The curve will serve to retain the U in the loop. So you can let go of it while threading the string through the bridge pins and whatnot. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico On 3/1/07 12:31 PM, "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu> wrote: > Hi Eric, > I tried it, and was successful the second through fifth times (got the > second loop backwards the first time <G>). But I found it awkward and > counter-intuitive, hard to figure out just which way things needed to be, and > hard to get hold of the tail and spring it around while keeping everything in > place. So I got to thinking there must be an easier way, and it occurred to me > that the ³sheetbend² knot would work well here. This is a knot I read about > years ago and haven¹t seen recently, a cross between the standard ³tuner¹s > knot² and a square knot. Here¹s a description of how to do it in this > circumstance: > > Starting with a string broken at the capo (or agraffe) > 1) Make a loop at the end of the short wire (coil still attached to the tuning > pin). Direction doesn¹t matter, just bring the tail of the loop around on top > of the string. Loop should be a bit larger than ³Spurlock style,² big enough > for two wires to go through. > 2) Bend the loop upward (make a bend in the short wire on the tuning pin side > of the loop, right next to the tail). > 3) Pull the end of the long wire through the loop, over the tail. > 4) Make a U bend in the end of the long wire, horizontal, either direction. It > should be tight, the size to go around one wire. Amount of wire about the same > as for a loop. The end of the wire should end up close to parallel to the long > wire (it¹s okay if it crosses the long wire a wee bit). > 5) Make a downward bend to the U a couple mm. in. You probably need to hold > the short end of the wire with a pliers, screwdriver, or something so that > both sides of the U get an equal bend. > 6) Pass the short, free end of the U under the short wire (the one attached to > the tuning pin). You will end up with the U bend straddling the short wire. > 7) Pull the long wire back through the loop, guiding the end of the U through > the loop (over the tail). > 8) Pull tight and proceed as usual. > > I find this a bit simpler to learn and to do. It¹s a knot I use for bass > strings where there isn¹t much plain wire past the wrapping, but this is also > a perfect place to use it. Try it, I think you¹ll like it. > > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > > > On 2/28/07 1:36 PM, "Wolfley, Eric (wolfleel)" <WOLFLEEL at ucmail.uc.edu> wrote: > >> Fred, >> >> >> >> Yes, I do the slight loop bend on the short wire loopŠit makes it easier to >> slide the long wire through and futz with it if you need to. I find that it >> is a little easier to make the tail on the long wire a little longer because >> it gives you a little more leverage when getting it to go into place. >> >> >> >> A great way to practice this is to take about 30² of wire (#14 ½ - just so >> you can get used to it). If it comes off of a 1 pound coil like mine does it >> will want to form a circle. With the cut ends of the circle to your right >> just make believe like the part of the wire coming up from the bottom is the >> ³short² wire and the other cut end will mimic the ³long² wire. Proceed as per >> the earlier instructions and you have spliced the circle together. >> >> >> >> Eric Wolfley, RPT >> Head Piano Technician >> Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music >> University of Cincinnati >> >> >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred >> Sturm >> Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 2:52 PM >> To: College and University Technicians >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] CAUT String Repair Class....was unusual repair >> >> >> >> Cool! Makes plenty of sense, and seems like it would be pretty efficient. One >> trick being to keep that tail on the long section short, so it is easy to >> "spring" and slip around the other wire. And you probably wouldn't make that >> second loop quite as tight, for the same reason. Do you do the "bend over the >> tail" thing, giving the loop a bit of the angle it is going to need, or does >> that make it too hard to spring it around the other wire? Or maybe it would >> be easier. In my mind's eye it would be, now that I think about it. I'll >> experiment and see. (Here's where a picture would definitely be worth a lot >> more than a bundle of confused words, but maybe you can interpret what I am >> getting at). >> >> Regards, >> >> Fred Sturm >> >> University of New Mexico >> >> fssturm at unm.edu >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Feb 28, 2007, at 12:09 PM, Wolfley, Eric ((wolfleel)) wrote: >> >> >> >> Fred, >> >> >> >> I¹m sorry, I meant to mention that I don¹t remove the short wire from the pin >> at all. I make my first loop clockwise on the short wire with the tail >> passing beneath the string, feed the long wire through the loop from the top >> so it traps the tail, pull it through 2-3 inches and make the second loop >> clockwise as well but with the tail passing over the top of the string. (They >> are both clockwise because the strings are coming from opposite directions). >> I then can spring the wire a little bit and slip the second loop into place >> around the short wire while the loops are still 2-3 inches apart. This all >> easier to show than to describe. >> >> >> >> Eric >> >> >> >> Head Piano Technician >> UniversityHeadUniversity >> >> >> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20070303/c1737089/attachment-0001.html
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC