I've used the Spurlock and depending on the type of damper system it can be too heavy. OIder pianos with less efficient dampers are overloaded when I use it. I've come to prefer using my fingers, gently. I'm interested in this damper timing thing. I've come to enjoy timing my dampers a little earlier in the bass gradually later as you progress to the treble. This seems to work well for very efficient systems but doesn't seem to be desirable on the older less efficient systems where the effect is pretty much built in already. I've seen that tapered damper timing come from the factory on some pretty nice pianos. I understand it is a matter of taste and am curious if that taste is associated with certain types of music? Andrew Anderson At 08:10 PM 3/24/2007, you wrote: >Hi Fred.. > >Yes. Getting the levers at even height is the immediate goal here >(what you refer to below). That and making sure this height yields >proper key lift timing. We used their aluminum straight edge tool >for key leveling on the underside of the levers to get a straight >line, adjusting capstans as necessary. But whatever gets you >there... BTW the Spurlock bean bag idea looks kinda interesting... >has anyone tried one of these ? > >Cheers >RicB > > > But I think I now see that what you do is set samples (only tightening > those wires, the others all being loose), then raise the lift tray > to meet > the samples (and block it in place), then adjust all the other capstans, > which are resting on the lift tray, so that the bottoms of the > underlevers > are in line with the straightedge (the capstans are raising - or > lowering - > their respective levers to be in line, with the lift tray as the > "gauge" or > base, and the samples as the reference). Now you tighten all the other > wires, and proceed with standard twisting, tweaking and whatnot.
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