So... coming in from the top is recommended by Del. I'm curious as to why Ron then finds it unfavorable to drill into his laminated or for that matter any type of bridge. Surely if coming in from the top has no functional backdraw it allows for the greatest ease and most specific of placements. I've found that attaching one single large vice-grips is not the same thing as attaching three or four very small ones. I havent spent a lot of time on this, but it would seem likely that finding localities for several smaller mass additions would be desirable to attaching just one. Something about distribution of mass just intuitively seems to make sense. If visuals are a big deal here.... I shouldnt think it really would be a big problem to put a thin veneer over the top. Might allow you to fix deep string grooves caused by excessive string seating as well. Cheers RicB You can do that, but there is a (probably) easier and (certainly) more effective method. Remove a few strings around the affected area. Drill into the top of the bridge with a bit sized just a bit larger than a used lead key weight. (Careful, don't drill down into the bridge pins.) Epoxy bed the leads, including a bit of epoxy over the top. I mix in a small amount of graphite powder to make the mixture nice and black but still reasonably viscous. After the epoxy has cured scrape the surface flat and touch up with a graphite rub if necessary. If you've not blacked the tops of the bridges mix in various fresco powders to color the epoxy to match the color of the bridge. Yes, it can be seen but so what? Put the strings back on and try it out. You'll notice a definite increase in sustain, a decrease in the percussive pop at hammer strike and (probably) a decrease in false strings. This is basically the method I've been describing in my various classes for some twenty plus years now. I do keep trying all those new methods I hear and/or read about but I keep going back. I find it lots easier and more effective than drilling all those holes down through the bellyrail, etc. You'll find, by the way, that to achieve the same result you'll only need about half the mass that would be required if it were attached to the bottom of the soundboard. Ease up to the desired amount and don't over do things by going to far. Del
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