[CAUT] Soundboard mass

[Alan McCoy]

The idea of using smaller weights in a couple locations was also what Ron
suggested. 

Alan


> From: Richard Brekne <ricb at pianostemmer.no>
> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org>
> Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:39:37 +0100
> To: <caut at ptg.org>
> Subject: [CAUT]  Soundboard mass
> 
> So... coming in from the top is recommended by Del.  I'm curious as to
> why Ron then finds it unfavorable to drill into his laminated or for
> that matter any type of bridge.  Surely if coming in from the top has no
> functional backdraw it allows for the greatest ease and most specific of
> placements.
> 
>  I've found that attaching one single large vice-grips is not the same
> thing as attaching three or four very small ones.  I havent spent a lot
> of time on this, but it would seem likely that finding localities for
> several smaller mass additions would be desirable to attaching just
> one.  Something about distribution of mass just intuitively seems to
> make sense.
>  
> If visuals are a big deal here.... I shouldnt think  it really would be
> a big problem to  put a thin veneer over the top. Might allow you to fix
> deep string grooves caused by excessive string seating as well.
> 
> Cheers
> RicB
> 
> 
>     You can do that, but there is a (probably) easier and (certainly)
>     more effective
>     method.
> 
>     Remove a few strings around the affected area. Drill into the top of
>     the bridge
>     with a bit sized just a bit larger than a used lead key weight.
>     (Careful, don't
>     drill down into the bridge pins.) Epoxy bed the leads, including a
>     bit of epoxy
>     over the top. I mix in a small amount of graphite powder to make the
>     mixture
>     nice and black but still reasonably viscous. After the epoxy has
>     cured scrape
>     the surface flat and touch up with a graphite rub if necessary.
> 
>     If you've not blacked the tops of the bridges mix in various fresco
>     powders to
>     color the epoxy to match the color of the bridge. Yes, it can be
>     seen but so
>     what?
> 
>     Put the strings back on and try it out. You'll notice a definite
>     increase in
>     sustain, a decrease in the percussive pop at hammer strike and
>     (probably) a
>     decrease in false strings.
> 
>     This is basically the method I've been describing in my various
>     classes for some
>     twenty plus years now. I do keep trying all those new methods I hear
>     and/or read
>     about but I keep going back. I find it lots easier and more
>     effective than
>     drilling all those holes down through the bellyrail, etc.
> 
>     You'll find, by the way, that to achieve the same result you'll only
>     need about
>     half the mass that would be required if it were attached to the
>     bottom of the
>     soundboard. Ease up to the desired amount and don't over do things
>     by going to
>     far.
> 
>     Del
>