[CAUT] hammer thickness trimming jig

[Greg Newell]

Dan,
	Not trying to taper them, just adjusting thickness.

Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
www.gregspianoforte.com
216-226-3791 (office)
216-470-8634 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Dan
Reed
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 2:14 PM
To: College and University Technicians
Subject: Re: [CAUT] hammer thickness trimming jig

There exists a two disk (two motor)  set-up, angled to the correct amt.

Will it work with the shanks attached?

Dan

On Aug 24, 2008, at 12:19 PM, Ron Nossaman wrote:

>
>> Greetings kind folk,
>> 	I’m hoping that someone out there in cyber land can help me today. I
>> have the task of thickness trimming on some prehung hammers from S&S. 
>> The
>> hammers came too thick for the vintage grand I’m working on as there 
>> is not
>> sufficient clearance to allow reliable individual hammer movement.
>> Ordinarily I would do this before hanging hammers but since these are
>> pre-hung 
. well I’m a bit stuck. Does anyone know of a jig that 
>> could be
>> built that would accommodate trimming with the shanks on? The 
>> archives seem
>> to point to something from Roger Jolly but the posts I read were not
>> conclusive that one exists. Help?!?
>> Greg Newell
>
>
> Hi Greg,
> The easiest way that occurs, and possibly safest, would be to buy or 
> make something like this 
> http://www.specialtytuners.com/sanding_disk.html and do them on a 
> drill press. I'd probably go 60 grit. A raised "pad" to set the hammer 
> on will accommodate the side angle of the shank, and a strip of wood 
> tacked on the pad will give you a fence to hold the hammer against to 
> avoid spontaneous launching. A couple of "bites" on each side, keeping 
> the shank clear of the disc, should be able to thin them to whatever 
> you need. I presume the tails are already tapered, and will likely be 
> narrow enough without further work??? The bigger hammers will be easy 
> to keep flat, and the sides parallel, but the treble hammers get 
> tougher. If the trebles are hung square to the shank, that gives you 
> an outrigger (the shank) to square the hammer to the sander with 
> another block of wood clamped to the table for the shank to rest on. 
> You might find it easier to make two separate setups. One elevated for 
> the "shank down" side of the angled hammers and one flat with 
> outrigger support for the "shank up" side of the angled hammers (which 
> will be wide enough to control without the outrigger), and both sides 
> of the smaller square hung hammers. Either way, it's more work than 
> thinning prior to hanging.
>
> Let us know what works for you.
> Ron N
>