Thanks Ed. amd all
I may try some riblets. I needled a lot and got some good results which
brought out more reasons why the board is going bad. Although, good
things happened! Lifting strings, tappping bridge pins down, (and
strings, actually "massaging them into the nook of termination) took out
almost all the false beats that were bugging me to death. The sustain is
very good overall, but the real power isn't there for a 9'. I think,
again, this is the soundboard talking to me. It sounds more like a 7'-er
in the mid and high treble...The bass is still quite good and I'll finish
evening it out tomorrow. Any other hints would be greatly appreciated!!
How do you all let the piano tell you that the soundboard is going even
with decent downbearing???
Thanks again all! You're an awesome resource for knowledge
Paul
A440A at aol.com
Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
07/26/2008 09:38 AM
Please respond to
College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
To
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Subject
Re: [CAUT] HELP
Paul writes:
<< I thought I grabbed the acetone to put some
below the staple to help the fundamentals, but instead, grabbed the
lacquer! After seeing what I had done, I quickly grabbed the acetone and
tried to dilute what I had done. I'll check it out Sunday or Monday after
all has dried, but; Have I ruined these hammers?!?!?
I doubt it. What happens below the staple can easily be manipulated by
working farther up in the hammer. At some point down there, the maker even
has a
thick slab of glue that has wicked into the hammer felt!
>>I thought the Ronsen's didn't need laquer and such.
Depends on many things. Any hammer can be put in a situation where it
is
too hard or too soft for the purpose.
>>I was disappointed
with the initial response. Now, the bass is good with a 4:1 laquer
treatment on the lower shoulders--twice in the single strings, but the
killer octave area is really weak and tinny. >>
I suppose there is a philosophical perspective at work here ("The
flow
of energy through a system tends to organize that system".) However, I
don't
understand why time is left out of the equation, ie, hammers, initially,
do
NOT sound like they will after the first say, 40 hours of play. I think
there
is a reason to do nothing, initially. (This isn't usually applicable to
the
concert stage.)
Playing the hammer, after the felt has been stretched, pressed,
glued,
shaped, tapered, will cause the felt to change. It moves around, seeking
equilibrium between the pressure and stretch. Not only will the surface
compact,
and the felt directly below the strings begin to harden, but the
fundamental
structure of the bulk of the felt will become more resilient, (assuming it
is
accepting of a needle, and not been soaked in a hardener).
I look for a hammer that produces various spectra according to the
force
of blow. Plotted against our hearing bias, there is something very
non-linear about all this, in terms of response. To get that, for me,
requires a
graduated density in the felt, from the contact down to the core. Early
in my
career, I assumed that the rock hard level should be reached only at the
bottom of
the felt core, and the softening would be spread over the entire dimension
from there to strike surface. This allowed for a maximum range of tone,
from
foggy to brilliant, but the weak wristed need not play: it took a lot of
muscle
to use all the range. Comments like, "sounds good, but it's a lotta work
to
get tone", etc. I have since changed my idea on this.
I have gotten good results by leaving a lot more of the hammer's
"heart" in its original compression, and creating the "non-linear spring"
in a
smaller zone, nearer to the surface. It is a little trickier, but allows
for a
longer hammer life and ease of voicing. A big part of this is letting the
hammer break in before I begin doing things to it. I have used so many
Renner
Blues, that I can needle them on the bench, before I do anything else.
They
usually sound a little "cotton-ish" at first, but after a week or two of
daily
play, they require some medium deep needles up around 10:00-11:30 on the
shoulders to loosen them up to their final voice. I rarely need to needle
at 12:00
on these hammers.
The last set of Abel's and Ronsen's have behaved much the same way,
with
a few differences. These were mainly in the sense of how quickly they
broke in
and the felt seemed a little less resiliant, (judging from the way the
filed-off pile of felt felt).
Loudness depends on the upper partials, power requires the lower ones.
To combine the two, in an evenly graduated way, is the art of producing a
piano
with a "malleable tone". Pianists instinctively like this, as it allows a
musical control that is unavailable on a piano that starts and ends with
one
tonal character.
Regards,
Ed Foote RPT
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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