[CAUT] Full Cover w/ DC

[Fred Sturm]

	I think radiant heating is a real challenge. I have a console on a  
brick, radiant heated floor, that has crazy swings in spite of well- 
serviced dampchaser system and back cover.  (Over time, I up-graded to  
DRY humidistat, then back cover. Each step helped some, but not as  
much as expected. Still unacceptable).
	I think the addition of heat by conduction, due to the piano being in  
contact with the hot floor, is a big part of this. I have been  
puzzling about how to deal with it. My best guess so far is some kind  
of insulation  - don't know how much good caster cups might do,  
whether to do some kind of blanket under the bottom board.
	Definitely an issue that needs to be examined and solutions proposed  
and experimented with. I wonder whether the contact of the grand's  
legs with the floor isn't part of the problem, in addition to what is  
radiated up from the floor. Rubber casters might help - probably not,  
but perhaps worth a try as part of a solution. I'm thinking about the  
conduction part of the equation, which might or might not be  
significant in this case.
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm at unm.edu



On Mar 26, 2008, at 7:46 AM, Joel A. Jones wrote:

> Jon,
>
> I have a similar situation in that the heat  is  radiant in the floor.
> The church added a long piece which wraps under the piano,
> thus keeping the temp and humidity even inside the piano.
>
> With your floor length cover I would explore adding a few straps
> with velcro to pull the extra length of cover underneath the
> piano.  My guess is that this would even out the temp and
> humidity and eliminate the sauna effect you are experiencing
> now.
>
> Let us know how you handle this situation.  I am very
> interested on what happens.
>
> Joe
> Joel Jones, RPT
> Madison, WIl
> On Mar 26, 2008, at 7:51 AM, Jon Page wrote:
>
>> I recently took over the tuning for a church with a 7' Imp.  
>> Bosendorfer.
>>
>> On my first visit the music director asked me to remove the tank.
>> I lifted a section of the full-length cover and got under the piano;
>> it was quite warm and humid, too much.
>>
>> This is an old church with wooden floors with the parish hall below.
>> The heat radiated up through the floor and was trapped within the
>> cover causing the piano to become even warmer. With the humidifier
>> running it was like a sauna or greenhouse (to a degree).
>>
>> Of course, as I was tuning, the piano drifted since it is now being
>> acclimated to the room. That was fun.
>>
>> I recommended that they ditch the full length cover and supplement
>> the rods with a string cover. This way the string cover can remain on
>> during services and removed for performances if needed. I don't think
>> they need the H20 since there's no excessive heat or cold in the  
>> winter
>> and no one willing to monitor it.
>>
>> I suggested they place a hygrometer inside to monitor the piano when
>> first opened and after service and to ascertain the effect of the  
>> full cover
>> and whether they really needed the H20 in the winter.
>> They have yet to do that.
>>
>> The music committee asked the dealer about the full cover and DC
>> and the dealer naturally stuck by their sale.  I was asked by the  
>> music
>> director to give my suggestion at a committee meeting next week.
>>
>> So my question is, with the heat radiating upwards from the hall  
>> below
>> is a full cover ideal. I believe a string cover and heat rods are  
>> sufficient.
>> I can see where a full-length cover in an auditorium can be useful
>> but in this case I think it is detrimental.
>>
>> They don't really need the bulky, protective cover because there
>> is no traffic around the piano.  A lighter cover would do if desired.
>> -- 
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jon Page
>>
>