Jim,
Jig image below.
The small block to the right of centre has a
groove in it which allows the long knurled
thumb-screw to tighten the block onto the wire,
holding it in a centralised position while the
two coils are formed around the pin by hand
(using a pair of parallel pliers on the small
'crank' on the end of wire). The forming pin is
removable, so that I can turn up a suitable pin
for making coils to the desired diameter. There
always will be some spring-back after the coil is
formed, so the forming pin needs to be smaller
than the desired final diameter. The springback
will be less with thicker core wires, and vice
versa. The small 'crank handle' on the end of the
wire, and the bend at the coil, are formed with
parallel jaw pliers before the wire is fitted to
the jig. The knurled thumb-screw has a long shaft
made to a specific length, which provides a ready
reference for determining where to position the
bends on the wire before making the eye, to
provide just enough wire to make the job of hand
winding the coils around the back length segment,
then bending the tail back to an appropriate
angle before cutting it to length. When cutting
the tail to length, its a good idea to keep the
cutter jaws parallel to the plane of the eye.
This prevents the sharp edges of the cut-tail
from damaging the paint work on the plate.
Ron O
>I'd sure like to see that jig for making them
>that tight. (I do it the old way with round-nose
>pliers)
>
>Thanks,
>Jim Busby BYU
>
>
>From: caut-bounces at ptg.org
>[mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ron
>Overs
>Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 9:41 PM
>To: College and University Technicians
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bass bridge, string scale, cantilevered bridge, tone
--
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
Grand Piano Manufacturers
_______________________
Web http://overspianos.com.au
mailto:ron at overspianos.com.au
_______________________
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