[CAUT] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair

Paul Milesi, RPT paul at pmpiano.com
Fri Apr 30 09:38:48 MDT 2010


Many thanks to all who contributed to my education the past couple of days!
I ended up gluing the two original top block pieces together, clamped for 24
hours, then drilled and inserted three 1/2" hardwood dowels.  Finally, I put
a little stain on the dowel ends to blend them with the lyre finish
(refinished years ago by somebody else).

While aware of Steinway lyre construction using posts and wedges, I thought
it best not to remove remaining top block piece from posts or remove the
wedges.  I felt re-inserting wedges after gluing the top block might split
my glue joint open again.  I just tried to take advantage of the wide
surface area between the two pieces to achieve a good glue joint.

Question about the doweling:  When I drilled the 1/2" holes, my dowels were
a little lose, not a tight fit that needed to be pounded or squeezed in.  I
assume with enough glue, this is OK?  When I use hammer shanks for wood
filler, the shanks are generally tight in the hole I've drilled.  Not sure
why these turned out differently.  If anybody reads this paragraph, I'd sure
appreciate insight into whether tight fit is necessary, and how to best
achieve it.  Thinking about this because I know clamping a glue joint is so
important.

Pix attached.

Paul Milesi, RPT
Washington, DC
(202) 667-3136
E-mail:  paul at pmpiano.com
Website:  http://www.pmpiano.com

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