Sorry about he photos. I have resent them via Adobe Photo Mail, and hope it works this time. There is no setup time with the block and it holds the shank very securely. The Kawai tech cut the shank off with one stroke of the saw.The sawdust is very minor, but if it proved to be a problem I would make a little cloth hood and move it from hammer to hammer. I only present the idea to show that we do not always need elaborate equipment to work efficiently. and is not intended to claim it as superior to any other method. What works best for you is the way to go. Thanks Ron for your information on the glue. Paul: Thanks for your kind comments. I am no longer in Banff , and moved to London, Ontario to be close to my family after retiring in 2001. I still do a little work, but at age eighty-seven no longer full time. I am tinkering with making simple tools, and am currently working on an article on voicing uprights. I am very well and enjoying life. Ted Sambell ________________________________ From: Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> To: "caut at ptg.org" <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Thu, September 9, 2010 5:28:26 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block Paul, On the last few sets I used my “Multitool”, http://allprotools.com/dremel/oscillating-tool.html?gclid=CKqMm7Sk-6MCFRxEgwod3HFQHQ and my shank clamps, and it literally took me longer to attach the clamps than it did to cut them off. Best, Jim From:caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T Williams Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:19 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block Sorry Ted, but no photos were attached! I've also found a Dremmel tool with a cutter works nice and neat as well with little sanding....and very fast! I just tried this with my first set of WNG carbon fiber shanks, and with a few minutes of careful prep (ie covering the hammers to keep the black dust off) works very well. I'll use this method again even with wood shanks. Even a first try took about 15 minutes, and I'm sure it will speed up next time. Are you still in Banff, Alberta? I still have that hammer-top "squaring off" sanding jig you gave me some 15 years ago and use it often! (new sandpaper replaced, of course! ;>) ) Thank you so much! Best, Paul From: Edward Sambell <esambell at yahoo.com> To: caut at ptg.org Date: 09/09/2010 03:43 PM Subject: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block ________________________________ The attached photos are of a hammer shank cutting block I made ten years ago and used ever since for cutting away the protruding stubs of new grand hammer shanks. It is based on those used in the Kawai factory. Their technician did a whole set in less than five minutes. I could not work that fast; it generally takes me ten minutes or more. A Japanese saw (which cuts on the pull stroke) MUST be used, as a Western saw can result in damage to the centers. I use a Dozuki (dovetail) saw with a stiff back 9" blade. Cutting flush carefully makes sanding the shank ends unnecessary, though a few strokes with a sanding paddle gives a nice appearance. I have the WNG kit, but have yet to install a set of the shanks, so do not know if the saw will cut them satisfactorily. If it does, there will be very little dust. If anyone is interested in further information, let me know and I will post a sketch and instructions on making the block. It is very simple, and can be made in half an hour, but one does need a table saw and dado blades. As for glue - is hide glue unsuitable for the carbon fibre material? Wherever it makes sense I prefer natural glues. What about fish glue? It sets slowly ,but has a fast tack, . I find it helps correct the vertical angles while gluing the hammers on. Ted Sambell -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20100909/8d76bd72/attachment.htm>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC