[CAUT] Bum set of NY hammers, I'm afraid

[Horace Greeley]

Hi,

At 09:32 PM 2/12/2011, you wrote:
>Ok that makes a good deal more sense.  I'll read to find out the 
>length or duration of soaking etc.

As a rule of thumb, just think about how long it takes for whatever 
hardener to go into suspension to begin with.

In terms of lacquer and lacquer sanding sealer, it's relatively 
quick...but, since the aromatics have flashed off, probably overnight 
will do in most cases.

In terms of plastic/keytop and acetone, your guide would be whatever 
length of time it takes for that stuff to dissolve before it's used 
on the hammers to begin with.  A couple of days?  Three, 
maybe?  OK...then, it's probably going to take something around that 
length of time for the plastic to begin to soften, let alone go back 
into suspension.  (Hint:  Your air compressor is your friend...and, 
of course, you'll be using a CALOSHA-safe nozzle....)

Best.

Horace




>Dale S. Erwin
>www.Erwinspiano.com
>Custom restoration
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>-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu>
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 8:55 pm
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bum set of NY hammers, I'm afraid
>
>On Feb 12, 2011, at 5:39 PM, Dale Erwin wrote:
>
>>I'll have to read that and see how come you are more successful 
>>with this than I have been.... which is mostly not at all.
>
>Probably because it involves soaking, not just flushing with solvent 
>running down the hammer tail. The key is to leave the hammer felt in 
>a bath of solvent for a period of time, to give the solids time to 
>dissolve. I also use a mix of acetone and "lacquer thinner" 
>(whatever mix of things that might be) to cut the things most likely 
>to have been applied. A couple soaks, and the hammer is pretty close 
>to flushed, at least in my experience.
>Regards,
>Fred Sturm
><mailto:fssturm at unm.edu>fssturm at unm.edu
>"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
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