Reply to: RE>>more Steinway questions Hello Ben, It is not a good idea to bend the keyframe pin; I had an experience with a Hamburg Steinway D where this had been done and the pin had snapped off flush with the end of the front rail. So someone drilled underneath the broken stump and fitted a three inch long quarter inch drill bit as a substitute pin. This in turn had broken wood out of the bottom surface of the rail. We managed to effect a sound repair by cutting out the damage, inlaying a new piece of maple and fitting a new pin. The usual remedy for a slapping front rail where there are no cardboard shims on the keyblock is to shim the top edge of the keyblock plate down. If it only needs a small amount the screws can be loosened most of the way and a strip of card or veneer inserted and the screws re-tightened. The plate must not protrude below the bottom of the keyblock. Of course, the keyframe should be properly bedded first, as it often happens that the glides have been turned down, thus raising the front rail off the keybed. I hope this is helpful. P. S. I heard you on 'As it Happens' , Canadian Radio with Michael Enright two evenings ago. All power to you, and I hope to make your acquaintance this July in Dearborn! Ted_Sambell@BanffCentre.ab.ca d -------------------------------------- Date: 5/6/96 23:42 To: Ted Sambell From: pianotech gThat pin on each end of the keyframe, is there a way to bend it or raise it up when you need more pressure on it and there is no more paper to remove from under the cheekblock? Benjamin Treuhaft Berkeley, Calif
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