In a message dated 97-04-05 23:52:45 EST, you write: << The tapering probably went a long way toward allowing the pins to slip, because the wood is not pressing equally throughout the length of the pin. I would straighten it out without a qualm! Make sure you use a 3/0 reamer and not a 4/0. I'm assuming 2/0 is what you are removing. Hope this helps, >> OK, Warren: I would prefer to do that, In addition, I believe that will also help keep the pins from creaking/jumping. Yes, I would use a 3/0 reamer for 4/0 pins. Still curious about the rosin, where to get it, and its benefits. A long time ago, I got "technical rosin" from some place. I cannot remember. Now just to let you know, a respectable rebuilder in my area drills new blocks with tapered drill to the same end that Chickering did on this piano. He has been doing it for some time. Respectfully, are you sure about that tapered business being a dead end? However, your statement sounds right. 2/0 is what I have removed. Regards, Sam Grossner- Chicago. Keith McGavern writes: >Your reason to hestitate to ream these tapered holes is well justified, Sam. I'd verify the original tuning pins and see if they weren't tapered as well. I recall a Bosendorfer class I attended many years ago that spoke specifically to the tapered design as a very special feature. It allows setting the pins ever so slightly to increase frictional holding power. To ream these tapered holes out removes that feature permanently.< My response: I do not believe the pins were tapered, tho I should have checked and they are now gone. Darn. However, new pins certainly are not, so perhaps Warrens suggestion is still valid. Would not new pins certainly behave as he suggests? A non tapered pin in a tapered hole will not bind equally throughout, actually binding only in say, the bottom third. That would not be an ideal circumstance, leading to continual tapping throughout the years, perhaps. Yours Truly, Sam Grossner BTW: Guy, thanks for the Garfield lube tip.
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