Satin Ebony - Cleaning Steinway

[Frank Weston]

Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols wrote:
>
> At 11:33 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >I can't speak for the modern finishes, but if you're working with a
> >vintage piano, say earlier than about 1920, the finish is most likely a
> >stained shellac.  This finish can be completely restored by careful
> >rubbing with a mixture of spirit stain, alcohol, raw linseed oil, and
> >shellac.  Experiment on a less visible part first, and be aware that
> >different finishes were used in different places.  Be aware that rubbing
> >out an old finish can be very satisfying, but is actually a LOT more
> >work than just refinishing with modern paints.
> >
> >Frank Weston
> >
> What??
> Are you talking about "french polish" ing a black satin??
> Have you done this??
> Respectfully,
>         Guy

There is a subtle difference between french polishing and rubbing out an
old shellac finish.  I have done both on vintage pianos with excellent
results.  Shellac is a wonderful material, but it requires a lot of
elbow grease.

To restore a shellac finish, ebony or otherwise, try these steps:

1. Test the finish with alcohol to make sure it really is shellac.  On
old finishes, lots of rubbing may be required before shellac begins to
soften.  Go slowly, and be careful not to damage anything.

2. Once you know that you are working with shellac, clean the surface
one of two ways: If the surface is only mildly crazed, rub with steel
wool to remove dirt and grit.  If the surface is really alligatored,
sand with 400 grit wet dry paper and mineral spirits (paint thinner).
Use extreme care not to sand down to the wood or else you will have a
very hard time matching stains.

3. Use a high quality shellac.  Best to use flakes and make your own
fresh.  Don't forget to filter.  Cut to 1.5 # with denatured alcohol,
mix in ebony spirit stain.  Make a rubbing pad with cheese cloth.  Make
a bigger pad for large surfaces, and a smaller pad for tight corners and
small surfaces.  The amount of rubbing you will have to do depends on
the amount of shellac the pad will hold, so experiment. Note: to restore
some finishes, nothing but alcohol may be required.  Use as little
shellac as necessary.

4.  Soak the pad, then squeeze until just damp.  Rub lightly with a
circular motion, if the pad begins to drag, lubricate with a drop of raw
linseed oil.  Rub until the pad is no longer depositing shellac (15 to
30 minutes).  The surface will begin to gloss as the pad dries.

5.  Repeat as necessary, best to let dry at least 24 hours between
rubbing.

6.  After a week of drying, wax.

This technique requires a lot of work, and a lot of experimentation.
There are a lot of details you will have to work out for yourself.  The
results can be phenomenal.  The finish is absolutely beautiful, and
unlike modern sprays, can be done almost anywhere, a small section at a
time.

Have I done this?  Yes.  Would I recommend it on a commercial basis?
No.

Frank Weston