Factory key weight summary

[Richard Anderson]

Thanks to all who replied to list and privately.

I used a 72" 3/8" rod to make 52" and 20" bars. I bought a 50lb. box of
5/8" washers (Farm & Fleet .89/lb.) which was more that enough for both.
I threaded the ends and used nylon insert stop nuts and 3/8" fender
washers at each end. I won't use these for initial leveling because the
rod prevents easy removal of the key off the balance rail pin. I will
use these for dipping in the keybed and for setting underlever timing
and damper stop rail. This is more easily done without the stack
blocking the view of the tail/underlever and access to the upstop rail
screws. I'll be able to set the weight rail on the back of the keys to
slide them in under the underlevers laying loose on the tray, and then
set the weight on the front of the keys (just behind the sharps, not on
keytops) to hold everything at full dip for setting the upstop and
traplever blocking off to match lift with key.

The long rod can also be used for settling punchings by setting it in
front of the capstans overnight. The 52" weighs about 30lbs. so its not
something to be taking on and off repeatedly, but it does the above
better and more easily.

Thanks again for the replies.

Richard