Brass Rail problem

[James Dally]

Many thanks.  You describe my situation accurately.  The brass butts I have
do not have grooves in them.  My main problem is that a few of the hammers
(in bass or tenor or treble) will come completely loose.  I have repinned
some flanges where is is just a "wobble" problem.  Today I really tightened
down on the screws to see if that will work.  I can't see any problems with
the brass rail where I removed six dampers.  Thanks again and I may be back
in touch.  Jim Dally

----------
> Jim,
> 
> I assume you have the type action where there is a continuous brass flange
> anchoring a whole section of hammer butts; each individual boss on the
flange
> has an unthreaded hole, with a butt plate (threaded hole) facing the
player
> and the screw head facing the strings.  For purposes of my explanation,
please
> note the following nomenclature:  A hammer butt is the shaped wood piece
at
> the bottom of the hammer shank, a butt plate is the small brass piece
with the
> hole in it.
> 
> Usually, if the butt plate or brass flange is cracked, there will be a
click
> as the note is played and a rattle as the assembly returns to rest; if the
> hammer rest felt is hard from age, the hammer shank may "sing" a bit as it
> hits the felt.
> 
> In my experience, wobbly hammers on this type of action may come from --
in
> descending order of frequency:
> 
> 1.  Butt plate cracked at screw hole
> 2.  Brass flange cracked at the center pin groove
> 3.  Worn bushings in the hammer butt;  either repin or if the bushing is
too
> far gone, rebush.
> 4.  The bushing hole (which comes close to the edge of the wood) is
cracked.
> I have had good experience with thin CA glue here, but of course the
better
> repair is to replace the hammer butt.
> 5.  Loose screw.  If have found this sometimes.
> 6.  Hammer shank loose in butt
> 
> I always take the damper flange loose to get at the butt plate screw.  I
> loosen the butt plate screw just enough to slip the center pin out and
remove
> the hammer butt.  I put my finger in behind the butt plate and feel to
see if
> it is still flat or if it has gone swaybacked.  If swaybacked, I remove
and
> replace with a new one, checking to see that it does not rub on the hammer
> butt when that is reinstalled.
> 
> If the butt plate is not cracked, I look at the boss or nub on the brass
> flange and there is usually a slight crease showing where the flange is
> cracking at the center pin groove.  Sometimes pulling on it with index
finger
> will pull it loose.  This means installing a repair clip.  Installing a
repair
> clip means some extra filing and fitting and a dab of glue to make
everything
> line up and stay lined up.  Email me if you need any help with this.
> 
> As a check whether the hammer wobbles from a loose center pin, I grasp the
> center pin with a pair of pliers while I have the hammer out, and check
to see
> if the pin moves around in the bushing while I pull the hammer side to
side.
> 
> Bill Maxim, RPT
> 
> In a message dated 98-06-12 23:24:58 EDT, you write:
> 
> << 
>  I installed new butts and hammers on a Kroehler upright.  I have checked
>  the brass rail and the brass butts where the screw goes in.  This is the
>  type where the screw goes through the rail and then the brass butt
receives
>  the threaded screw.  The butts have been replaced where hammers have
>  loosened but the problem continues.  When it seems I have solved the
>  problem, another hammer loosens.  As near as I can tell the rail is not
>  cracked.  If anyone has had experience with this problem I will certainly
>  appreciate advice.  Jim Dally >>