Brass butt problem

[James Dally]

Hello.  Yes, I have thought of CA.....I have hesitated to use it because of
the possibility of moving into the wooden butt flange.  The brass butt is
secured with a small metal screw.  Those screws don't seem to be stripped. 
As you know, the screw goes through the rail and then into the threaded
butt plate.  I'm getting some nice replies which are much appreciated so
maybe I'll track this down.  Thanks.  Jim Dally

----------
> Rob,
> 
> So, you are saying then that you have the type of hammer butt where the
brass
> plate is
> attached directly to the butt with a wood screw? If so, I have found that
> cleaning and
> filing the surface of the hammer butt where the butt plate attaches helps
> sometimes.
> The butt and butt plate have to mate precisely. But if the screw hole is
> stripped no
> amount of tightening will do it. And if that part is ok but the flange
bushing
> is worn
> slightly you will either have to re-pin or replace the flange. (I guess
that
> part is
> obvious)  ;-)
> 
> But in reading your post further it sounds as if you may have an unusual
type
> of
> flange/butt assembly in which case maybe replacing the felt and putting
CA or
> epoxy in
> the screw hole???
> 
> Hope this helps..
> 
> Regards,
> Greg Torres
> 
> Robert B Edwardsen wrote:
> 
> > If the brass is not cracked my experience has been that sometimes the
pin is
> not
> > quite lined up and that makes the butt really loose, other times I have
> found small
> > cracks/splits in the wood of the butt below the felt lined pin hole
allow
> the butt
> > to have a little wobble.
> >
> > I would imagine brass is pretty easy to mold since it has a pretty low
> melting
> > point compared to Stainless Steel.
> >
> > Rob Edwardsen, RPT
> >
> > Gregory Torres wrote:
> >
> > > James,
> > >
> > > Is it the butt plates that are breaking or the rail itself? If it is
> chronic
> > > you may just have a case where the brass  has  "crystallized". I don't
> know if
> > > this is a legitimate technical term for it but I don't know any other
way
> to
> > > explain it except that the brass has changed it's molecular structure
and
> has
> > > weakened. Or somewhere another tech has over-tightened the screws
> weakening the
> > > brass. If it is the rail you may have to have the brass rail
duplicated. I
> > > don't know who does this anymore-anyone else???
> > >
> > > You might also be able to get by with the brass rail flange/plate
repair
> clips
> > > sold by Apsco or Schaff. They have proven indispensable for me many
times.
> I
> > > keep a couple dozen of the different types in my parts bin at all
times.
> Good
> > > Luck.
> > >
> > > BTW, maybe someone can explain why stainless steel has not been used
in
> this
> > > type of application (I haven't seen it used anyways) besides being
more
> costly
> > > than brass, perhaps??? Del?? any others??
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Greg Torres
> > >
> > > James Dally wrote:
> > >
> > > > I installed new butts and hammers on a Kroehler upright.  I have
checked
> > > > the brass rail and the brass butts where the screw goes in.  This
is the
> > > > type where the screw goes through the rail and then the brass butt
> receives
> > > > the threaded screw.  The butts have been replaced where hammers have
> > > > loosened but the problem continues.  When it seems I have solved the
> > > > problem, another hammer loosens.  As near as I can tell the rail is
not
> > > > cracked.  If anyone has had experience with this problem I will
> certainly
> > > > appreciate advice.  Jim Dally
> 
>