Hi John: You might have scared the Lac. manufacturing rep. with your questions about specs. We use just ordinary cellulose lacquer for interior furniture finishing. I have never used such weak solutions as 10:1, but I know others have. High solids clear lacquer will make the tone brighter. If you overdo it, it is harder to get needles into and out of the hammers. If you use Lacquer sanding sealer, the needles will work better. I wouldn't worry so much about the material specifications. The thinning will make more difference than the material. As your mixture sits around, the thinner evaporates and you lose your precision anyway. I'm doing a job now in which I am using two melted keytops in a half pint of Acetone. I am gradually building up the sound so that I do not have to needle back right away. Jim Coleman, Sr. On Tue, 23 Jun 1998, John Woodrow wrote: > List, > > I need to bring up some hammers that have been slightly over needled. Read the archives on juicing up hammers and the 1:10 Sanding Sealer or Lacquer to Lacquer Thinners or Acetone appears the way to go. > > > However, when I enquire with the lacquer manufacturers as to their product range, their first question is for what application. They are immediately put of as soon as I have to explain the 'unusual' application and aren't very helpful from that point onward. I understand that they don't want to be liable for any 'recommendation'. > > > Can somebody provide me with a technical specification for the correct type of lacquer and/or sanding sealer that I should use (as I am situated in Australia brand names are not useful). I can then just tell the supplier exactly what I need. > > > Any comments on the pro's and con's of sanding sealer v's lacquer would also be appreciated. > > > Appreciate any help on this. > > > Regards, > > John Woodrow > > Sydney, Australia > > <bold><bigger> > > </bigger></bold>Email: John.Woodrow@aus.dupont.com > > >
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