fixing plate flange/block gap

[PBfoot]

We add thickening agent to the epoxy, which makes is possible to do the job
without dripping problems.  It also makes it very easy to clena oof the
excess.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don <drose@dlcwest.com>
To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: fixing plate flange/block gap


>Hi all,
>
>
>
>Well why not consider using something simple like waxed paper to make
>release very possible.
>
>
>At 03:43 AM 10/19/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>God help the tech who wants to get this repair apart in twenty years to
>>replace the pinblock.  Sorry,  I don't think this is a good repair
>>because it makes proper repair impossible at a later date.  It cannot be
>>assumed that their is enough graphite or other material on the flange and
>>webbing to constitute a good release agent for epoxy seperation.
>>
>>
>>Dale Fox
>>
>>
>>On Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:30:39 -0700 Robert Goodale
>><Robert.Goodale@NAU.EDU> writes:
>>>Larry J. Messerly wrote:
>>>
>>>> Found also that there is a gap running almost the length of the
>>>plate
>>>> flange that I can stick a business card single or folded into.
>>>>
>>>> Suggestions on repairs would be much appreciated.,  Wedges,
>>>MarineTex,
>>>> West System epoxy???
>>>
>>>I've come across two extreme examples of this, one of which was a
>>>piano
>>>of Asian ancestry in which a dealer didn't want to bother with. The
>>>other was on a Steinway "S" which had been rebuilt. This might sound a
>>>little extreme, but worked very well.
>>>
>>>You will need to flip the piano upside down. Obviously this will
>>>require
>>>some helpers and the action will need to be removed. If possible do
>>>this
>>>on some nice padded heavy saw horses. If you use three or four well
>>>built ones it should be enough to hold the weight of the piano
>>>reliably.  What you will be doing here is filling the gap with epoxy
>>>but
>>>there are two very critical points before hand. The first one is that
>>>you will need to apply masking tape to each end of the plate so that
>>>the
>>>epoxy will not run out the ends. The second is that you will have to
>>>pre-treat the gap with a little fast curing epoxy. I use the West
>>>System
>>>#G5, (PianoTek). This is important because it will cure in about 10
>>>minutes and seal the bottom of the gap. You will not be using very
>>>much
>>>here, just enough to cover the bottom since this type of epoxy doesn't
>>>have much strength.  If this step omitted you seriously risk the
>>>stronger long-cure epoxy to leak past the block and down through the
>>>plate webing. Once the fast-cure epoxy has hardened you may fill the
>>>gap
>>>with the good stuff. I use the West Syetem 105 with the 206 hardener,
>>>(PianoTek). You may need to apply the epoxy a second time to
>>>completely
>>>fill it up. As you had suggested, a few wedges inserted might not be a
>>>bad idea as well. This method seemed to work well for me, perhaps you
>>>will have luck with it.
>>>
>>>Rob Goodale, RPT
>>>
>>
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>>
>Regards,
>Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.
>"Tuner for the Centre of the Arts"
>drose@dlcwest.com
>http://www.dlcwest.com/~drose/
>3004 Grant Rd.
>REGINA, SK
>S4S 5G7
>306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
>