Kranich and Bach Plate Crack

[Delwin D Fandrich]

Well, I've finally waded through all of the numerous replies to this post!
There do, however, still seem to be one or two unanswered questions...

Since no one else seems to be willing to stick their foot in it, I might as
well.  It's already fairly well known that I almost single-handedly constitute
the lunatic fringe element, so it's doubtful that I'll get into any more trouble
than I'm normally in.  Besides, in a case like this, that may be just what you
need.  My thoughts are interspersed below.


Michael Jorgensen wrote:

> Hello,
>     I own a 7'3" Kranich and Bach which has a crack in the plate webbing
> area in the mid-range which extends from just shy of each plate brace.
> The crack ranges from about 0 to 1/8" wide and meanders through tuning
> pin holes which are very close together and have plate bushings.
> (Previous techs rebuilding with oversized pins coupled with plate
> bushings may be the cause of the crack).  The pinblock is totally shot,
> and the tuning pins lean foward, (toward the strings), about ten
> degrees.  Despite these problems, the piano is tunable to A-440 and does
> ok, but is getting constantly worse due to loose pins, (i.e. the plate
> crack does not seem to be a problem and has not changed in decades)

What you choose to do with a piano of this type and with these problems depends
a lot on what you intend to do with it when you are finished.  If you intend to
keep it for yourself, that's one thing.  If you intend to resell it, that's
another.


> HERE ARE THE QUESTIONS:
> If I replace the pinblock, should I just ignore the crack as if it
> weren't there?

That depends on what happens to the crack when you drop tension.  It also
depends on how structurally sound the rest of the plate is.  If, as you say, the
crack hasn't changed in years then it probably becomes just a cosmetic problem.


> When tension is released, will this crack close up?

It might, but by now I doubt that it will.  At least not completely.


> If it closes up, should I still ignore it?

Again, this depends on what you plan to do with the piano.  Personally, for
purely cosmetic reasons, I would have the crack(s) welded by the best cast iron
welder I could find.  (Go to someone experienced with welding things like old
diesel engine blocks.)


> or where would I drill for the plate pinblock screws which would be changed,
> (for no tension or tension)??

Does the crack extend through some pinblock holes?  If not, why would would you
be changing them?  In any case, without seeing the piano, or at least some very
clear photographs of the plate, it's impossible to tell.


> If it does not close up, should I fill it with something for looks?

Again, I would do this.  It's purely emotional.  I wouldn't want to look at the
open cracks.  Nothing besides a good weld or braze will work though.  Sorry, CA
fans.


> Do you think the pinblock has pulled away from the plate flange
> since the pins all lean forward at such a drastic angle?  (This is hard
> to tell since it has delaminated due to many spilled drinks from its'
> hotel days).

As you say, until you get the plate out it's going to be impossible to tell.
Probably the top layers of the block have just disintegrated.


> Have any of you replaced pinblocks with plate cracks in the webbing area and
> how did it turn out?

Not when they were this bad.  But many of us have rebuilt pianos with open face
pinblocks.  What's the difference, really?  In fact, assuming that the rest of
the plate has good structural integrity I'd seriously consider converting it to
an open face arrangement anyway.  It might be easier than trying to weld the
plate back together.  In any case, this is one time when I would seriously
consider using a Delignit pinblock.  Normally I don't like them much but the
material is so stiff that it might be an advantage in this case.  Also, I'd be
sure that there is firm support on both ends of the block.  Be sure the new
block is glued and screwed (or doweled) to the inner rim at each end.  I'd also
want to glue the new block to the stretcher even if it wasn't built that way to
begin with.


> Am I in for unexpected problems?

Of course you are.  But this is par for the course with any rebuilding job on a
piano of uncommon make.


> OTHER BIZAAR WIERDITIES ABOUT THIS PIANO
> Piano has not a single agraff, strings make horrendous angles around
> bearing bars.

Can any of this be corrected during the rebuilding process?


> Tuning pins crowded.

Another factor in favor of converting the plate to an open face block design.
Again, I'd sure give this some thought.  Assuming that the plate has adequate
strength, whether or not you can pull it off depends on how innovative and
creative you are.  Does a project like this scare you or do you look at it as a
challenge?


> No duplex scaling.

Good.


> Bridges excellent, Crown and Downbearing Excellent, no cracks in board. Bridge
>
> pinning is excellent quality, rim and braces very staunch.

Again, good.  But if you're going to go to all this trouble you should at least
consider replacing the board.


> Action--retrofitted with Steinway wippens and shanks, capstains
> relocated.   Must remove action rails to take action stack off as action
> bracket feet screws are under the keys. (I'm still thinking about
> options for this).

Can you fit standard action brackets?


> A standard una-chorda has been added. L-shaped
> brackets hold the key frame firmly against the keybed since it is so
> terribly thin, so action can shift. Action cavity is small.
>
> Despite these annoyances, the piano has an excellent unique tone, and
> has especially pleasing visual lines.  I cannot help but love this old
> "Chronic Disease" but must soon rebuild it to keep it going.
> -Mike Jorgensen

This sounds like a very interesting project.  Keep us posted.

Regards,

Del