Thanks, Newton, for your very kind words. The same tool might be fashioned with wood and X-acto blades. The shank should be maple or harder and resistant to splitting (hornbeam, lilac, boxwood). The blades could screw or bolt on, maybe with latitude for vertical adjustment - then the guide could be tapered a little so mortises could be offset, or a larger taper to work on bushed and unbushed keys. "The un-Bushmaster" ;) Hands still hurt from removing the very tight pins with pliers with leather mitten jaw liners. Next problem to tackle. Clark
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