---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hi Graeme, Check height, with the hammer set at the desired blow distance, the centre line of the shank should line up with the top 1/3rd point og the check. With the rake set at 22 degrees, and a radius of the tail being 1/2 the distance of the tail to centre pin measurement, and the tail from the bore centre being 3/4" but no longer than 1". every thing will regulate just fine. See this months Journal, east to read pictures. Regards Roger At 07:44 PM 30/08/00 +1200, you wrote: > > > Willem wrote.... > > <Greame. I guess I'll have to say it again: Fly me down there, and I'll show > you. :) > > <To remove and install back checks, with wires, I find it works best if you > put the key in a vice. Remove the wire with a pair of side cutters, but use a > > small block of wood as the fulcrum point, instead of the key itself. This > will pull the wire out much easier and it won't elongate the hole. . > > To install the new backcheck, I use a soft face hammer to gently tap the new > wire back in. As far as height, measure the old one, and use a jig of some > sort, (a hammershank with a line on it) to determine the correct height of > the new one. > > > > Hi Willem, > You could fly down and do both jobs at once (valuing pianos from a previous > enquiry). :) > In this particular case, though you are probably not going to get here on > time, as I hope to complete this job in a few days. > > The new checks I've been supplied with are fitted to the wires already, and > my query was how to install them complete without removing the wires. Is your > method, using a soft faced hammer intended to tap the top of the check itself > or just the wire? > How do some of you others approach this? > > The other issue of check height relates to a re-designed action, lowered > hammer centre height etc etc, so the old check height may not be the best > position, though could be a close guide. Sorry I didn't mention this before. > (Pity, you could've stayed a bit longer in NZ to solve this one too) > > My thinking is that for the most efficient checking, the best situation is to > have the most hammer tail surface area in contact. > Therefore, if the ideal checking distance is say, 16 mm from the string then > the top of the check could be set so tat the hammer tail is well down the > check leather. > > Does this make sense? > Any other thoughts on this, any rules of thumb (or rule of thumbs) here? > > Regards > > Graeme Harvey > New Plymouth > New Zealand > > > Roger Jolly Saskatoon, Canada. 306-665-0213 Fax 652-0505 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/4e/19/16/b6/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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