Pinblock/Frame Separation

[Doug Garman]

Terry and List --

I just did my first one of these two weeks ago, before this current thread
started.  It was a Sohmer "Primrose" spinet with three 1/16" to 3/32"
separations, each about 7" to 9" long from the middle of the piano to the
top.

In my ignorance I was really worried about the plate, but I see now that
they will apparently bend more than I thought.  Don't know if I would have
attempted one like you're doing, Terry.

I like the idea of using clamps to pull the layers back together.  I just
depended on the new machine screws to do that.  You're right about the soft
wood crushing and the epoxy-filled cracks not pulling back together all the
way.  (I assume that those yellow/black Quik Lock trigger type clamps --not
sure about name-- do not  have enough power to do the job.  Just wondered
before I go out and buy more pipe clamps.)

My mentor had me doing some things differently.  In addition to replacing
the eight screws across the top I drilled four more holes in the treble
(where the separations were) for a total of 12 3/8" machine screws.  The
slot-head machine screws were inserted from the plate side for a cleaner
look.  I used a countersink on the new holes and also cleaned the original
holes so that all heads were fairly flush with the plate surface.

On the back side a paddle bit was used so that the washer and nut stayed
below the back surface of the piano.  The machine screws were measured and
pre-cut in a bench vice using a saber saw with a metal cutting blade.
Finally, metal caps were snapped into the holes in the back of the piano to
hide the hardware.

The piano tuned up nicely (for a spinet) and appears to be stable.  I was
pleased with the piano's appearence, too.  The job was done in the
customer's living room and took the better part of a day.

Doug Garman