Bridge gain delamination

[Joe & Penny Goss]

Hi Patrick,
If up is north down is south east is towards the hitch pins then if your
crack is along the west side predominately you may need to add a metal rail
along the west side of the bridge slightly longer than the break attach with
screws and then glue.
Joe Goss
----- Original Message -----
From: J Patrick Draine <draine@mediaone.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 7:57 AM
Subject: Bridge gain delamination


> Dear List:
> I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to buy a
(32 year
> old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500. Everything
looked AOK
> EXCEPT:
> the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd call it
the
> bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above the
> tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at the
bridge
> pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint in the
body of
> the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint line is
too
> prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet).
> I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by running
screws with
> washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but real
> separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge should be
AOK.
> Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian pianos
(I've
> seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)?
> Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal?
> Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al?
>
>