Dampers are not that difficult, just multiple steps and tedious. Cleanliness counts. The wires have to be polished with a fine metal polish and the bushings must be clean or replaced. Bushing have no tolerance for wear or uncleanness. The damper mechanism must have all centers free, about like jacks. The damper blocks should sit squarely on the strings with the wire descending straight down to the upper damper flange and should float in the center of the hole. The wire and head must rise and fall in straight vertical lines. In Steinways the dampers must ride lightly one on side of the bushing to prevent vibration when raised quickly by the key. It should ride the side of the bushing furthest from the strings on either side. Raise the damper slightly and use a delicate touch to determine which side they ride upon and if it is too snug. If so use wire bending pliers and VERY DELICATELY bend the wire so it just touches with a small amount of pressure. Bend just above the upper flange. The damper should center on the string without moving in any direction and should contact the string equally at each end. Key timing and pedal timing are critical but not really involved with effectiveness. Check out the cause before doing anything and think about the solution, anything you can undo, before beginning. If you are installing a new set of damper felts install one damper at a time, get it working perfectly then go to the next one and on to the end. The only thing you will need to do later is retime them when the felts have compressed. Easier this way then trying to make them work after installing. This is not a hard job, just takes time. I can teach anyone, anytime; just air fare, room and board and some pocket money. Newton
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