I don't like filing the bridge pins either. If I treat, or oversize or whatever to get the pins tight, why would I want to heat them up by filing and make them loose again? dave *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 9/1/00 at 10:33 PM Roger Jolly wrote: >Hi Ron, > Note I mentioned the pointed pins. To my way of thinking if >they are anchored, the bottom of the pin is less likely to move over time >do to expansion and contraction due to humidity swings. >The point will also leave no cavity if driven securely home, the head of >the other type pins will not conform to the angle of the drill bit. > I prefer these longer pins, and drill a little deeper to accomodate them. >I agree with your point on the quality of maple that seems to be used on >many caps, but I would consider sloppy drilling to be just as big a factor. > Depth, blunt drill bits etc. >If the hole has been incorrectly drilled and is the pin is loose, epoxy is >probably the best long term solution. > > >At 10:34 PM 01/09/00 -0500, you wrote: >>>The pins need to be anchored to the bottom, to prevent eventual flag poling >>>from continuous humidity swings. >> >>Do they? Why? How does being bottomed out prevent the flagpoling? >> > >>What if you don't think filed bridge pin tops are particularly pretty, and >>you've bled enough already? Aren't the pins filed primarily to disguise the >>fact that the holes weren't all drilled to precisely the same depth, and >>isn't the filing a result of the presumed need to bottom the pin in the hole? > >Heck, Ron you got lot's of blood, spare a little for the cause. >I like the fresh shiny finish, but you got me thinking, as I'm sure your >right about the depth of the holes. > >Roger >> >>Ron N >> >Roger Jolly >Saskatoon, Canada. >306-665-0213 >Fax 652-0505 David M. Porritt dporritt@swbell.net Meadows School of the Arts Southern Methodist University Dallas, TX 75275
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