Terry Farrell wrote; >. . . . what is a 0.1mm >step drill set? Is this simply drill sizes that progress from bit to bit in >0.1mm increments? Yes >And what guidelines do you use in selecting a drill bit >diameter for a given pin diameter (I presume the drill bit selected would be >some measure smaller than the bridge pin). Thanks! Generally around 92 - 94 % of the new bridge pin diameter. So if we were to use a 2.5mm oversize pin to replace a 2.2 mm pin, we would probably use a 2.3 mm drill. 2.5 mm diameter = 0.0984" 2.5 X 92% = 2.3 mm When redrilling the bridge pin holes, it is difficult to ensure that the axis of the drill is in line with the original hole. As an alignment guide, we might insert a 2.2 or 2.1 mm drill (whichever one fits comfortably in the original holes) in a nearby hole to the one we are drilling. This would allow us to hold the drill at the original bridge pin angle as we drill out each hole. People who lack experience doing this have been known to break off the odd drill bit in the bridge. It really makes your day if you're so lucky. Don't forget to make up a depth stop for the drill (ours is turned out of brass, with a chamfer which matches the 20 degree angle of the bridge pin inclination - a small set screw locates it at the correct position on the drill). It is very important that the bridge pin holes are drilled to the correct depth. For those of you who are interested in bridge cap replacement, there is a link to a series of six detailed images showing the replacement of a bridge cap on a model D Steinway. The link can be found at the end section of the article "Bridge cap wood selection and conversion - for piano technicians" on our website. After redrilling the holes when overhauling an instrument, it finishes a job nicely if the bridge top is cut clean with a flat block, and the notching recut prior to applying the new slip coating (which, we hope, is confined to the horizontal surface of the bridge only). The bridge notches should start just behind the centre line through the bridge pin group. When pianos are destrung, it is not uncommon to witness the strings contacting the bridge wood well into the speaking length, since the side draft - bridge pin angle combination tends to pull to strings down hard onto the bridge wood (this will be especially so if some over-enthusiastic technician has belted the strings into the bridge in an effort to eliminate falseness - which may even be due to some other cause). The bridge pin should act as the termination point, since the high hysteresis loss of wood makes it a highly unsatisfactory termination material. Ron Overs Overs Pianos, Sydney Australia ------------------------------- Email: sec@overspianos.com.au Website: www.overspianos.com.au -------------------------------
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