-I once worked in a cabinet shop using contact cement for plastic laminates > Lacquer thinner is the solvent and if applied with a syringe@ the glue joint the top should release easily> Ventilation of course important> Tom Driscoll> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan Kline" <sckline@home.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 10:42 PM Subject: Re: Cleaning Up Contact Cement > >>Tom, > There is a citrus cleaner that will clean the keys up without a lot of chem. > odor etc. > It takes a little longer before you can resurface the key ( 24 hours ) but > it is worth it to avoid the smells. > Susan? what was that stuff? > Joe Goss<< > > Sorry, folks, my computer was in the shop for a few days this week > (what withdrawal pains!!!) so I just now saw this, as I was bumbling > around the archive, seeing what I missed. > > The citrus stuff, which smells so nice, is usually called "citrus solvent". > A brand here in the northwest is Citrasolv, but there are others. > > It's non-toxic, and usually does pretty well with hardened old crud. > It's fairly oily for use around bare wood, though. Joe, did the > glue stick okay after 24 hours? I suppose I should pour a little > into a bottle cap and let it evaporate, and see what is left. > > I've used citrus solvent > to clean up adhesive from note name labels on top of ivory, not > on the keystick itself. On the other hand, if you use it instead of > toluene, your liver will thank you. Citrus solvent doesn't hurt > ivory, anyway, though it might turn some of the older celluloid > fronts gummy. I've used it, in small quantities, around newer > plastic keytops, but carefully, and it was okay. Once I tried > to get some gum from a price label off a plastic ruler, and Citrasolv > clouded it instantly, so there is one kind of plastic which it melts. > > Have you softened the contact cement with an iron and wet cloth? > Did it let you remove cemented ones, levering with a knife > blade? > > Susan
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