Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps

[JIMRPT@AOL.COM]

In a message dated 4/03/2001 10:41:07 PM, Dale wrote:

<<"I've wondered about driving fluids

as well but have not used them.">>

Dale a Cuba Libre ain't bad on a warm day and...... it sho makes working less 
painful! :-)

 Undoubtedly you will get several "opinions" in this thread so here's 
mine....OK?
A good pin driving aid will contain 3(?) qualities and these are:
1.) ease of use/application.
2.) consistency of results.
3.) aid in stringing effort.

 My favorite weapon of choice is Spar Varnish because it is:
1.) easy to use/apply. (little dab'll do you and too much won't effect long 
term results.
2.) gives verrry consistent results.
3.) makes stringing sooo much easier (particuarly if you use a T handle like 
I do. 

 The varnish acts as a sealer/lubricant while it is still wet and as a 
sealer/ snap retardant when it is dry. Turning pins in a wet pinblock treated 
with varnish is aprox 1/4 to 1/3 easier than turning them when the block is 
dry.


 <<"I'm using buldoc/stwy blocks in all

stwys/Rebuilds and the pins are hard to drive and no matte how consistently

I drill I.E. same speed,pressure and air cooling there will always be some

tortional inconsistencies.  That being said I mostly like how they tune.">>

 The five ply blocks you are using are very good blocks...but like most 
things they do have some drawbacks chief of which is what mayyyy be termed 
soft spotitis.
 This happens when two or more layers of the pinblock have 'soft' spots lined 
up vertically. The result of this is that when you drill the holes they will 
be a trifle larger in the 'soft spots' then in the relatively 'harder' rest 
of the block...........also these 'soft spots' will not hold a pin with the 
same force as will the 'harder' portions of the plank....this results in your 
"tortional inconsistencies'. Just the way things are with these 
blocks...don't mean they are 'bad'. Short of hand picking ass'td size pins 
for preselected holes I don't know any cure for this symptom.

In a 5 ply block with two soft spots together this "spotitis" will effect 
aprox. 40% of the pin length...or if the first 4 layers are all that are 
contacted it will effect aprox. 50% of the pin length....how much this will 
effect the "inconsistencies" you are speaking of is relative to the rest of 
the block.

 If'n y'all likes the way dey tune, and all the other parameters of 
stability, etc. are there, then keep on  keepin on.


   <<"My question is this. For those of you who are using maple blocks and

driving fluids ,do you think it affects tuning smoothness, changes tortional

values or is it just a way to make driving a pin easier.  My srtinger(Terry)

is a little five ft. Italian gal and although plenty fiesty would appreciate

any help in the  driving each new One ought pins into freshly bored maple.:>>

 Varnish treated blocks definitely have fewer 'snappers' than do non treated 
blocks,.....in my experience. Driving in the pins is much easier and setting 
coils, applying tension and chipping are all easier by 'far' while the 
varnish is still at least damp.
1/0 pins??? Why do you use 1/0 pins? In my opinion 1/0 pins add a measure of 
flagpoling/twistyness that I don't like, but if there is a gooood reason for 
using them I might reconsider my thoughts here.



  <<"Also if driving fluid changed slightly the pin torque and allowed for

smoother rendering that would be fine.">>

 Dale, treating or not treating the pins/pinblock has absolutely nothing to 
do with string rendering other than making the tuning pin easier to 
manipulate. However that being said I will contradict myself and say that 
having to fight the pin less will allow you to 'feel' the rendering much 
better....or is that what you meant?



<<"The finest tuning piano in the world

is an old steinway thats never yet been restrung. You know the kind ,well

preserved and unadulterated.  The pin torque is so even and the tuning ends

up being so stable because the pin doesn't wrestle with the tuner!!!!">>

Betcha a LARGE cup of coffee that this pinblock was treated with varnish 
during stringing...wanna bet? :-)
My opinion.
Jim Bryant (FL)
p.s. Do a test for yourself....take a scrap piece of pinblock....drill three 
holes...
drill one hole 17/64ths and two holes 1/4"..............(adjust for your 
favorite sizing/feel).....in the 17/64 and first 1/4 hole..........install 
2/0 pins to the level where they would normally be after chipping/coil 
setting/tapping.......in the last 1/4 hole (for the test only) wet a small 
piece/wad of paper towel with spar varnish and push through the pinblock with 
a hammer shank...install the pin to the same level as the other two pins(be 
sure and mark the holes as to which is what:).  Immediatetly try turning the 
pins starting with the 17/64 and ending with the treated pin.......wait a few 
hours and try turning the pins again....set the test aside for a week or so 
and then try the pins again...let us know what you find OK?