If you don't want to have screws in the sound board then I have a system to reglue the ribs to the board without them. I can send image files. I would not worry about the actual cracks themselves. They will tighten up once back in the customer's home. I am leaning towards not shimming as I have seen them crack themselves years down the road. I now perfer to use epoxy to fill the void if necessary. Epoxy fills I have done twenty years ago are still good while shims have cracked. Reagrds, Jon Page >From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> >To: "Pianotech, forum" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 11:31 PM >Subject: Was it something I said? > > > > Greetings fellow listees, > > About a week agao I post this message and only had two people > > respond. I really could use some more opinions so I'll try posting this > > again. Please take a moment to respond. I really could use your advice! > > > > Greg > > > > Greetings folks, > > > I need the advice of you treasured people who are so kind to find > > > the time to teach those clueless people like myself. > > > I took in a piano for a customer who was having a property of > > theirs > > > demolished and needed to get the piano out in a hurry. She is having > > and > > > A.B.Chase (early 20's vintage) refinished, restrung, and action > > > overhauled for her family. I have had this piano in my home for about > > > three months acting as a big surface upon which to gather many many > > > useless items. I recently was preparing to begin the restringing > > process > > > and took down the tension on all the strings and removed the bass > > > strings. I plan to have Newton redesign the scale for this while , > > > hopefully teaching me how to do it for future piano I may inflict my > > > talents upon. Since I took down the tension about a week ago I found > > > something rather startling. What began as one very shim able but not > > yet > > > seperated crack in the board has now become 6 or more two of which > > have > > > separated from the ribs at spots and are wide enough to see daylight > > > through. I would call the main crack to be about thick enough to slip > > a > > > thin guitar pick through. This particular one has the wood being > > uneven > > > on both side of the crack indicating it's separation from the ribs. > > > Naturally this big one is right through the center of the board. > > > I'd like the opinion of this list as to whether these cracks can > > or > > > should be repaired or is it time for another board? I've never left > > > tension off a piano for this long before. Did I do a no no? If it is > > > your opinion that a new board and bridges are necessary then how would > > > > > you go about telling the customer of this added cost? Do you know > > anyone > > > in the Cleveland, OH area of perhaps PA area that you can recommend to > > > > > install a new board and do a job I could be proud to offer? Are there > > > any pitfalls along the way I should look out for? What could I expect > > to > > > pay for a board and bridges? > > > I've only subcontracted once before and I got bit really bad that > > > time so I'm really gun shy. Thank you for the time and effort to > > > respond. I hope the coming days, months, and years bring you all > > > continued growth and prosperity. > > > > > > Greg > > > > > > > -- > > Greg Newell > > Greg's Piano Forté > > 19270 Harlon Ave. > > Lakewood, Ohio 44107 > > 216-226-3791 > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC