At 12:04 01/25/2001 -0600, you wrote: >I was called out to see a Baldwin R less than 2 years old. The piano was >unplayable. The action was in need of thorough regulation, but the _big_ >problem was that the front rail was bowed up, decreasing the key dip by >unworkable amounts. The front rail has adjustable studs in the keybed, but >the front rail was flying way above the studs, making for a rather >interesting feel while playing. I must admit I wasn't sure what to do; if I >raise the studs to bed the front rail, and adjust the height of the keys and >the front rail punchings to get correct key dip, won't I just be asking for >problems if the front rail decides to change shape again come the high >humidity of summer? > >Any experience out there that could help in this situation? > >Kent Swafford Some idle thoughts... -Can we assume that the center and back rail are straight? -Can we assume that the glide bolts weren't factory cranked up so high as to force the front rail levitation? -By bowed, I guess that it is high in the center? -When the cheek blocks are loosened, do the ends move up? -If the ends stay put, then what you have is a wooden leaf spring for a front rail. Before you consider my suggestion valid, you must be ABSOLUTELY positive in which piece, where and in what direction the warp is going. If it weren't a brand gnu, under warrantee, hardly broke in piano, I would consider if I could reduce the bow by kerfing the rail. A kerf on the top would allow gravity to straighten the rail, but the springiness of the wood would probably still leave a nice slap. A kerf on the bottom with veneer inserted would force it straight. I've certainly kerfed a number of keys to correct warps (usually barrel type), but never a keyframe, so take this suggestion as just cyber thinking out loud. Conrad Hoffsommer - Music Technician -mailto:hoffsoco@luther.edu Luther College, 700 College Drive, Decorah, Iowa 52101-1045 Voice-(319)-387-1204 // Fax (319)-387-1076(Dept.office) Education is the best defense against the media.
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