Re. 80 year old with the pedal problem why not just put a VERY strong spring on the sustain pedal. Then the sweet lil' ol' lady will have to give the pedal a rest, not to mention her leg. :-) Joe Garrett, RPT ----- Original Message ----- From: pianotech-digest <owner-pianotech-digest@ptg.org> To: <pianotech-digest@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:01 PM Subject: pianotech-digest V2001 #295 > > pianotech-digest Monday, March 5 2001 Volume 2001 : Number 295 > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 09:07:25 -0800 > From: "Patrick C. Poulson" <pcpoulso@pacbell.net> > Subject: Polyester Repair > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > - ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0A553.B267F580 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Good Day, all! Can anyone direct me to a Journal article about polyester = > finish repair? I have search the CD-ROM and find only ads from Schaff. = > Has an article about this repair appeared since 1999, maybe? I have = > never done this repair before, and am wondering about the wisdom of = > diving into it on a customer's piano without prior experience. Thanks, = > Patrick Poulson, RPT > > - ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0A553.B267F580 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> > <HTML><HEAD> > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = > charset=3Diso-8859-1"> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR> > <STYLE></STYLE> > </HEAD> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Good Day, all! Can anyone direct me to = > a Journal=20 > article about polyester finish repair? I have search the CD-ROM and find = > only=20 > ads from Schaff. Has an article about this repair appeared since = > 1999,=20 > maybe? I have never done this repair before, and am wondering about the = > wisdom=20 > of diving into it on a customer's piano without prior experience. = > Thanks,=20 > Patrick Poulson, RPT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> > > - ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0A553.B267F580-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 08:56:14 -0800 > From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@jps.net> > Subject: Re: What do you tell a 90 year old lady.... > > - --=====_98381137441=_ > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Here's what you do...adjust the pedal so you only get some damper lift at > the very bottom of stroke. > > David I. > > > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > > On 3/3/01 at 11:31 AM Wimblees@AOL.COM wrote: > In a message dated 3/2/01 8:40:03 PM Central Standard Time, > Yardarm103669107@AOL.COM writes: > > > > Willem: > Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think most pianists totally lift their > > foot from the pedal at modulation. Generally, there is slack in the sustain > > pedal (about 1/8") to allow the foot to rest on the pedal before the dowel > begins to lift the tray, or in the case of an upright, before the rod lifts > > the lifter bar under the dampers. Does this sound right, or did I misread > your note? > Paul R-J > > > > > > > > > This lady pushed her foot down, and kept it there. She even commented that > she had never lifted her foot during playing for as long as she had been > playing. That is why it was hard for me to tell her she'd been doing it > wrong > for 80 years. > > Willem > > > - --=====_98381137441=_ > Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> > <HTML><HEAD> > <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> > <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> > <BODY> > <DIV>Here's what you do...adjust the pedal so you only get some damper lift at > the very bottom of stroke. </DIV> > <DIV> </DIV> > <DIV>David I.</DIV> > <DIV> </DIV> > <DIV><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR > ***********<BR><BR>On 3/3/01 at 11:31 AM Wimblees@AOL.COM wrote:</FONT></DIV> > <BLOCKQUOTE > style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"><FONT > face=arial,helvetica><FONT size=2>In a message dated 3/2/01 8:40:03 PM Central > Standard Time, <BR>Yardarm103669107@AOL.COM writes: <BR><BR><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE > style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px" > TYPE="CITE">Willem: <BR>Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think most > pianists totally lift their <BR>foot from the pedal at modulation. > Generally, there is slack in the sustain <BR>pedal (about 1/8") to allow the > foot to rest on the pedal before the dowel <BR>begins to lift the tray, or > in the case of an upright, before the rod lifts <BR>the lifter bar under the > dampers. Does this sound right, or did I misread <BR>your note? <BR>Paul R-J > <BR><XMP></XMP></FONT><FONT lang=0 face=Arial color=#0f0f0f size=2 > FAMILY="SANSSERIF"><BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></FONT></FONT><FONT lang=0 > face=Arial color=#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"><BR>This lady pushed her > foot down, and kept it there. She even commented that <BR>she had never lifted > her foot during playing for as long as she had been <BR>playing. That is why > it was hard for me to tell her she'd been doing it wrong <BR>for 80 years. > <BR><BR>Willem </FONT><FONT size=2 Arial></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML> > > > - --=====_98381137441=_-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 09:04:20 -0800 > From: "Mark Wisner" <MWisner@yamaha.com> > Subject: Re: Yamaha U2 > > The U2 model was never sold new here in the USA, so this is a "gray-market" piano. > For the USA market, we sold several models of upright pianos that had only two pedals. Although Yamaha grands for all markets now have three pedals we have never sold a grand here in the USA with only two pedals. > > "Did Yamaha have to discontinue the model after Bono filed a copyright infringement lawsuit?" > > Nah.....Yamaha named the U2 after the spy plane, so........no problem! > > > Mark Wisner > Piano Service > Yamaha Corporation > mwisner@yamaha.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:41:23 -0500 > From: "Carol R. Beigel" <crbrpt@bellatlantic.net> > Subject: Even more pictures of Iceland > > I fixed some of the pictures of Iceland and posted the "shoes". They are > X-18s, made in Reykjavik, and come in flourescent green and flourescent blue > soles as well! I did not realize until I arrived home in a snowstorm, that > they are also waterproof and give great traction on ice. To my knowlege, > nothing quite like them are sold in the U.S. Makes a memorable impression > on your customers, too! > > Once you click on the picture you want to see, click the View icon, then the > box at the top right corner to see the pictures on a full screen. It seems > no matter how hard I try, I can only get the pictures to appear in the order > I posted them. The newer pics are at the bottom of the list. > > The more memorable things I saw was the color of blue water, whether it be > boiling mud or pools from the power plants, whatever that pretty blue > mineral was, it was everywhere. Also, the idea of baking bread in milk > cartons in steam holes in the ground was really neat! And not to forget > that they can make you a pair of eyeglasses in the airport in just 15 > minutes! I bought some small German-made frames and they cut the lenses > from my old glasses to fit the new frames on something that looked like a > desk-top copier! If you don't have really bad astigmatism, they can make a > new set of lenses on the spot - even bifocals. They also had some little > things - like a 6 pack of small dot-shaped toothbrushes, compete with no > rinse toothpaste, that are disposable and stick to the end of you finger, > plastic toothpicks and some of the funniest commercials (on the Discovery > Channel, no less!) I have ever seen on TV. Too bad we Americans are such > prudes we can't enjoy some of the funnier realities of life. Still having > trouble finding that Braun shaver, though! > > Enjoy. > > Carol Beigel > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 11:01:28 -0700 > From: Robert Goodale <rrg@nevada.edu> > Subject: Re: Pinbock thickness > > Get the right size. Sometimes you can cheat a little if it is a little > thin, say 3/16 at the absolute most and preferably less in most > circumstances. In some isolated cases this can be somewhat of an > advantage if the piano lacks downbearing and you want to try correcting > this somewhat by slightly lowering the plate. As a side bar, however, be > aware that doing this can also reduce the keybed clearance so that the > action won't slide into the piano because the drop screws will run into > the block. > > Even a slight difference can be pretty substantial. One significant > reason, (particularly a whopping 1/2 inch), is that your tuning pins in > all likelihood will be too long and stick out through the bottom of the > block. Then you have to use shorter pins to compensate. This might seem > like it isn't a big deal but now you really are starting to change the way > the piano was designed. Since the idea of "restoration" is to make the > piano like it was when new, you really have passed the threshold of > "restoration. Doing a rebuild job requires many hours of hard work. > After going through the 98% effort of rebuilding everything else > correctly, go the tiny 2% and do it right. It is no big deal to order a > new block. You can use the 1-1/2 block on another piano. > > Rob Goodale, RPT > Las Vegas, NV > > > > David Renaud wrote: > > > A Knabe grand pinblock originally 1 3/4" thick. > > Sits on the shelf, with wood shims(thin), elevating the > > block/plate, to the proper level. Block ends are into the rim about 1/2 > > inch. > > > > The distance from the plate to the bottom of the flange is only 1 1/2 > > inches. > > So what is so stop me from using a 1 1/2" block and shimming > > the shelf the extra 1/4". It is screwed/glued down to the shelf away. > > If it is important to use a 1 3/4" block, why is it important? > > > > I ask as I have the 1 1/2" block material in stock, not 1 3/4" > > I am only considering if this may be an option, > > consulting with several experts that know better, > > including this list. > > > > Thank You > > Dave Renaud > > RPT > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 13:55:38 -0500 > From: Glenn Grafton <glenn@graftonpiano.com> > Subject: Re: Polyester Repair > > >Good Day, all! Can anyone direct me to a Journal article about > >polyester finish repair? I have search the CD-ROM and find only ads > >from Schaff. Has an article about this repair appeared since 1999, > >maybe? I have never done this repair before, and am wondering about > >the wisdom of diving into it on a customer's piano without prior > >experience. Thanks, Patrick Poulson, RPT > > If this is a one shot repair, I would recommend you refer the repair > to someone else with prior experience with polyester experience. You > don't want to practice on your first polyester repair on a customers > piano in their house though. > > It's sort of like when we get a customer who comes in looking to buy > a tuning hammer and some mutes so they can tune their own piano. > > If you're interested in making this a regular part of your services > you'll need the right materials, tools and go through a learning > curve, as with most things. > > We've used polyester materials from Allied National Industries in the > past with good results. We still use their buffing wheels (both a > course one and a fine one). The Koning materials are better. They're > available from Web Phillips (see: http://www.webbphillips.com/) > > To do it right you need to go out and buy a buffing machine with the > proper rpm, which you can get at an auto body supply store that > caters to the body shops (you won't find them at Home Depot, Sears, > etc.). > - -- > Glenn Grafton > Grafton Piano & Organ Co. > 1081 County Line Rd. > Souderton PA 18964 > http://www.graftonpiano.com/ > glenn@graftonpiano.com > 800-272-5980 > > The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 15:06:28 -0500 > From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> > Subject: Re: Pinbock thickness > > A thinner block will yield less pin / block contact area. Pi*D*H > where D=diameter and H=height. Consider the total amount of contact > area of the pin in the regular block and the amount in the thinner > block. Bear in mind you will have to use 1/2" shorter pins. Now > figure the % difference. > > Other than that, as long as you have the plate height set right, there > will be little difference. > > Newton > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 14:28:19 -0600 > From: Ron Lindquist <ronli@newnorth.net> > Subject: Dryburgh----Glue > > Would appreciate a address for Dryburge Adhesive Products, > Inc. Last one I had was 1-800-Glue-All. Tryed it twice then call > info. No listing for them and no other # but fax. ????> > > Phone number is faster-----than address. tks. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:26:59 -0800 > From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@jps.net> > Subject: Re: The Pitch Thing > > Well why don't you? It won't bother us a bit... > > David I. > > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > > On 3/4/01 at 4:25 AM Stephen Airy wrote: > > >OK, so maybe I'm weird, but.... > > > > > >I wouldn't mind having my personal piano tuned to > >A-427 (quarter step flat), A-415(half step flat), or > >even A-390 (full step flat) on some occasions, and > >I'm NOT talking about when it's in such bad condition > >that tuning it to 440 will split the plate. > > > > > >--- "Carol R. Beigel" <crbrpt@bellatlantic.net> wrote: > >> Why do people want their pianos tuned to anything > >> other than A440? Why > >> would they want A-442 or higher? What is the sound > >> that is trying to be > >> achieved here? Is is not true that a streteched > >> tuning at A440 sounds just > >> as "whatever" as a very clean (non-stretched) tuning > >> at A442 or higher? > >> > >> Carol Beigel > >> Greenbelt, Maryland > >> > > > > > >__________________________________________________ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > >http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 15:14:01 -0500 > From: David Renaud <studiorenaud@qc.aibn.com> > Subject: Re: Pinbock thickness > > The original pins were only 2 1/4 inches with > only 1"3/8ths of pin actually in the block. > > Open faced block inserts through top of plate(router job and fussy > fitting) > , so no extra pin height required to clear the plate. > So if I use the same size pin I am safe with a 1"1/2 inch block. > The only concern so far assume problems with cheating on > pins depth but this is not the case. I can go with original size pins. > > I thought a potential problem would be reducing contact with the > flange but the distance from the top of the block to the bottom > of the flange is 1 1/2 inches. > > I'm not sure why they went with such a thick block except that > they had insert cut outs into the plate, and wanted extra, so ordered > thick stuff. But they did not take advantage of the depth with longer > pins. > > Dave > > Newton Hunt wrote: > > > A thinner block will yield less pin / block contact area. Pi*D*H > > where D=diameter and H=height. Consider the total amount of contact > > area of the pin in the regular block and the amount in the thinner > > block. Bear in mind you will have to use 1/2" shorter pins. Now > > figure the % difference. > > > > Other than that, as long as you have the plate height set right, there > > will be little difference. > > > > Newton > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 09:06:57 -0800 > From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@jps.net> > Subject: Re: $450.00 Bass strings??????? > > Sacramento, California > > David I. > > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > > On 3/4/01 at 4:04 PM Tom Driscoll wrote: > > >Subject: Re: $450.00 Bass strings??????? > > > > > >> > > >> > >> By the way I sold the The remanufactured MASON BB You saw at Calif. > >> convention. Got good feedback from most(except for two Sacto. techs)No > >can > >> do like they can you know.(NOT EVEN GOD) nuff said > >> > >> Thanks > >> > >> Dale Erwin > >> > >> What is Sacto.? Just curious. T.D. > > y > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 13:58:21 -0800 > From: "pianolover 88" <pianolover88@hotmail.com> > Subject: strange FAC (SAT) numbers > > Setting up to tune a very old "Broadwood" grand over the weekend. Partially > rebuilt with new pinblock, pins and strings. However, I have a strong > suspicion that the scaling was pretty poor. After muting the piano as usual, > i attempted to take the standard FAC measurments, (twice to make sure) but > found the following numbers: 12, 2.4, 1.6! We obviously know that high > numbers such as 23 for the F reading, followed by, for instance 8 and 12 > would indicate a poorly scaled piano...but what about excessively LOW > numbers? > > Terry Peterson > Precision Piano Service > Torrance, CA > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:03:28 -0800 > From: "Erwinpiano" <Erwinpiano@email.msn.com> > Subject: Fw: Pinbock thickness > > Hi David, > > Sounds like you've answered your own questoins and the ones I was asking > as well. Sounds like you have plenty of safty factor with original pin > length. I'VE ALSO DONE THESE uuuggghhhh. Drilled and plugged with buduc > plugs in a 1873 stwy style 2. The results were just like a new block and > whole lot easier than fitting the compound flange fit and dealing with all > that mortise garbage. Who knows why the extra thickness. In this case it's > not needed and I can see no down side. You didn't say how big or old this > beast is. > > > Nice analysis. Good luck > Dale Erwin > > > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Renaud" <studiorenaud@qc.aibn.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:14 PM > Subject: Re: Pinbock thickness > > > > The original pins were only 2 1/4 inches with > > only 1"3/8ths of pin actually in the block. > > > > Open faced block inserts through top of plate(router job and fussy > > fitting) > > , so no extra pin height required to clear the plate. > > So if I use the same size pin I am safe with a 1"1/2 inch block. > > The only concern so far assume problems with cheating on > > pins depth but this is not the case. I can go with original size pins. > > > > I thought a potential problem would be reducing contact with the > > flange but the distance from the top of the block to the bottom > > of the flange is 1 1/2 inches. > > > > I'm not sure why they went with such a thick block except that > > they had insert cut outs into the plate, and wanted extra, so ordered > > thick stuff. But they did not take advantage of the depth with longer > > pins. > > > > Dave > > > > Newton Hunt wrote: > > > > > A thinner block will yield less pin / block contact area. Pi*D*H > > > where D=diameter and H=height. Consider the total amount of contact > > > area of the pin in the regular block and the amount in the thinner > > > block. Bear in mind you will have to use 1/2" shorter pins. Now > > > figure the % difference. > > > > > > Other than that, as long as you have the plate height set right, there > > > will be little difference. > > > > > > Newton > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:04:14 -0600 > From: "James Grebe" <pianoman@inlink.com> > Subject: Re: 'C' fork users only (inferior 'A' fork users need not apply) > > Hi Patrick, > > I tuned 18 years with my trusty C fork before I started using electronic > (SOT,SAT, RCT). I still in an emergency use my trusty C temperament as it > served me well and why learn another system when you are comfortable with > one that already works. Yes, there are purists who say that the A > temperament will work better and maybe so for some applications but I am a > bread and butter type tuner and set in my ways. > > > It is not the method , but the results when you are done that count. > Jim > James Grebe > R.P.T. of the P.T.G > pianoman@inlink.com > Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups and Practical Piano Benches in St. > Louis, MO > (314) 845-8282 > 1526 Raspberry Lane > Arnold, MO 63010 > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Patrick Greene" <greeneguy63@mindspring.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:20 PM > Subject: Re: 'C' fork users only (inferior 'A' fork users need not apply) > > > > I still use the C temp. I always wondered what you called the method I > use. > > I use that method, but a couple of my tuner friends have told me that it > is > > out dated and the A temp is better. I am worried that if I try to learn > it > > now, it will hinder my current tuning skills. What do you think? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: thepianoarts <thepianoarts@home.com> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:11 PM > > Subject: 'C' fork users only (inferior 'A' fork users need not apply) > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just kidding you overly sensitive 'A' fork users! > > > > > > Any "C" fork users care to exchange temperment checks and patterns etc? > > I > > > have been trying to evolve the 'Up three thirds, down a fifth, up two > > > thirds" etc. temperment taught from the Aubrey Willis course 25 years > ago. > > > Anyone on the list using this pattern? BTW, after 25 years with the > fork, > > I > > > moved to the Sanderson Accu-fork. It has some advantages. Their > beat-rater > > > is also a nice tool for checking contigious thirds. > > > > > > Dan Reed > > > Dallas chapter > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:09:25 -0500 > From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> > Subject: Re: Pinbock thickness > > If you use the same length pin ok. If you use 1/4" shorter pins you > will loose 18.18% contact area between pin and block. Hmmmm. > > Newton > > David Renaud wrote: > > > > The original pins were only 2 1/4 inches with > > only 1"3/8ths of pin actually in the block. > > > > Open faced block inserts through top of plate(router job and fussy > > fitting) > > , so no extra pin height required to clear the plate. > > So if I use the same size pin I am safe with a 1"1/2 inch block. > > The only concern so far assume problems with cheating on > > pins depth but this is not the case. I can go with original size pins. > > > > I thought a potential problem would be reducing contact with the > > flange but the distance from the top of the block to the bottom > > of the flange is 1 1/2 inches. > > > > I'm not sure why they went with such a thick block except that > > they had insert cut outs into the plate, and wanted extra, so ordered > > thick stuff. But they did not take advantage of the depth with longer > > pins. > > > > Dave > > > > Newton Hunt wrote: > > > > > A thinner block will yield less pin / block contact area. Pi*D*H > > > where D=diameter and H=height. Consider the total amount of contact > > > area of the pin in the regular block and the amount in the thinner > > > block. Bear in mind you will have to use 1/2" shorter pins. Now > > > figure the % difference. > > > > > > Other than that, as long as you have the plate height set right, there > > > will be little difference. > > > > > > Newton > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:39:48 -0500 > From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> > Subject: Re: strange FAC (SAT) numbers > > Excessive low inharmonicity. THis piano has a thin and less robust > tone than our "modern" pianos have. Tone image was different then > than now. Don't worry about it, just tune it and it will sound nice. > and for the sake of us all don't try to change it. > > Newton > > pianolover 88 wrote: > > > > Setting up to tune a very old "Broadwood" grand over the weekend. Partially > > rebuilt with new pinblock, pins and strings. However, I have a strong > > suspicion that the scaling was pretty poor. After muting the piano as usual, > > i attempted to take the standard FAC measurments, (twice to make sure) but > > found the following numbers: 12, 2.4, 1.6! We obviously know that high > > numbers such as 23 for the F reading, followed by, for instance 8 and 12 > > would indicate a poorly scaled piano...but what about excessively LOW > > numbers? > > > > Terry Peterson > > Precision Piano Service > > Torrance, CA > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:36:34 -0500 > From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> > Subject: Re: Dryburgh----Glue > > 1-800-GLU-EALL works just fine. Ed told me (when I called the number) > that his phones have been in and out all day, from the (minor) storm > we have had so far. > > Try it again. > > Newton (CA advocate) > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:56:30 -0600 > From: "Dr. Joseph Chen" <joe.chen@utoronto.ca> > Subject: [none] > > I would appreciate any response regarding a Heinzman Grand(5' 5") from 1912. > It is in need of major overhaul and is not playable right now. I will need > new keys/hammers/strings/etc. The overall construction is very solid and > the frame, plate and the sound board have no visible flaws. Any amount of > woodwork is mostly cosmetic rather than structural. > > How does one go about assessing the value of this piano when it is in this > condition? > What is the fair market value of this piano if it is reconditioning and > rebuilt properly? > Joe > Toronto > March 5, 2001 > > ------------------------------ > > End of pianotech-digest V2001 #295 > ********************************** > >
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