Doing polyester repair isn't rocket science, but it does require the right materials and methods. I agree with the guy who said to get the Konig system polyester. It's thinner, so it will fill the nooks and crannys of your damaged area, and it dries fast. I do a lot of polyester repair at the store where I work, so if you have any questions, feel free to email me. Basically, be sure to bevel the edges of the damaged area about 45 degrees. Too shallow bevel will sometimes cause problems in buffing. You don't need a buffer machine if you have the right compounds and sandpaper. Keep your sandpaper clean. I have used Meguiar's products, Mohawk products, and others besides the Konig. I have just discovered the best compound yet- made by Blue Magic. You can find it in the auto parts stores. If you rub long enough with it, it will buff out scratches from 1000 grit paper enough so it's very shiny. Though you could use one final compound to improve it. If you are repairing clear poly over wood color, good luck. If the color is still there, you're ok. If not... Mix your poly carefully. If you use the thicker poly, be careful about bubbles. I don't use it much, since I hate bubbles in the finish. Stir slowly. So, good luck. Paul McCloud San Diego -- mailto:pmc333@earthlink.net
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC