'C' fork users only (inferior 'A' fork users need not apply)

Barrie Heaton piano@a440.co.uk
Tue, 6 Mar 2001 17:06:24 +0000


 In message <B6C9D90C.371E%thepianoarts@home.com>, thepianoarts 
 <thepianoarts@home.com> writes
>
>Barrie,
>
>    Thanks...I would like to know more about your temperment.  Do you get
>involved with "breaking the octave up" into 3 contigious 3rds?  You must
>have 'memorized ' some beat rates from the looks of your pattern. For
>example, your first check, the maj. 6th G to E. You have, no doubt, been
>stretching wire for many moons.
>    Some folks who are wanting to learn aurl tuning, worry that they must
>'memorize' beat rates. Could you elaborate?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Reed
>
>Dallas, Texas

 Yes you have to learn the pattern of the 3rds and 6ths When I started 
 tuning we chipped the strings with a plectra  no action in the piano and 
 you pulled it up a semi tone. this teaches  leaver control and to judge 
 intervals, plus the beats are a lot easier to hear for the untrained 
 ear, when you pluck them.

 First you learn the C to E 3rd this is the most important one to get 
 right as it sets the start the rest of the intervals have checks to 
 cross reference except the D

 Some tuners start C to E then C down to G then B to E this gives you 
 your slowest 3rd and the second fastest 3rd,  now the 6th E to G  is 
 slower than the C to E. Then you tune the D wide to the G (sharp) you 
 then tune the  A to the D and check with the E, The A should be tuned 
 narrow to the D and should be wide of the E (some small pianos make this 
 hard to do)

 Up to the F# check with the D and A the 6th should be a tad slower then 
 the 3rd,  but faster than the C to E  Down to C#  this is the widest 4th 
 and check with the A  down to G# check with C You now have 3 3rds to run 
 up to see if OK G to B G# to C and A to C#  up to D# should be wide 
 check with B should be a tad slower than the C to E. Down to A# check 
 with D listen the 3rds then tune the F you have 4 checks for this one.

 and now tun the bass it is a lot easier to show then to explain.

 I always start my octaves in the Bass if I am not happy with the 3rd 
 4the and 5ths  as I get to E below then I will go back and make some 
 changes in the scale.

 The best way for some one who has an ETA or the use of one, would be to 
 use a gang wedge tune the right had string  with the ETA and tune the 
 left string by ear, move the wedge to listen to the beat rate on the
 ETA intervals, not ideal but if you don't have some there to say that is 
 too slow or too fast it should be a good alternative.

 A  game we use to play at college is get a gang wedge and a muting 
 strip, wedge the strings and lay a scale on the right string, remover 
 the wedge and place it so you can lay a scale  on the left string then 
 use the muting felt and lay a scale on the middle string,  pull out the 
 mute and see how good the unisons are - this teaches you consistency. 
 It gets interesting after a few beers :-)

 The scale was taught to all students ones you learn what the beats 
 should sound like, you can start anywhere if the client provides their 
 own fork which is normally an A then I start on A.

  There is no perfect scale or starting point you find one that you can 
 produce good constant work in a reasonable time scale.


 Take care

 Barrie,
-- 
Barrie Heaton      PGP key on request           http://www.a440.co.uk/
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