Pinblock Plugging; was: deep plug cutters

[Farrell]

Carl: How close a fit between plug and hole do you shoot for. What kind of
glue do you use. How do you apply. I've thought about a close fit and using
Titebond, but I always end up doing a looser fit and using epoxy - just so
that I sleep better at night. I can imagine Titebond being a lot easier
though. How do you do it? Anyone else?

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Meyer Carl" <cmpiano@home.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: deep plug cutters


I found a plug cutter just a mile or two from my house.  It was in a tool
supply store, but others have said they would have to order it.

I've made at least 1000 plugs with it and never have had it sharpened.

The air cooler (vortex tube) keeps it cool.  I blow the cold air onto the
cutter and  use a vacuum cleaner wand on the other side of the cutter to
draw the cold air over the bit and also suck up the chips.  I can cut plugs
continuously and still put my hand on the cutter.

I use standard supply house pin blocks and since it's too much work to pull
the plugs out of the block, I set my drill press so that it cuts only within
1/16 or so of the bottom.  Now you can use a table saw or planer to cut off
that 1/16 inch and they will all fall out.

I've made a pin block drilling machine and I drill out the block a little
over 3/8.  Can't put a 3/8 plug in a 3/8 hole you know.  I've found a metric
drill that is just right.  Now I drill the plug with a 1/4 inch drill and
use 2/0 pins.

I'll make it a point to bring pictures of these things to Reno, so if you'll
grab me I'll have them in my briefcase.

Regarding speed controllers, I don't know of any resistive controllers.  Of
course they wouldn't work.  The reason tools will overheat is that if they
have lowered voltage and are loaded heavily, not only will they draw
excessive current but will lack cooling since the internal fan is now
running slower
as well.

Speed controllers don't work very well at lower speeds.  The reason variable
speed drills work pretty well is that it uses servo control.  Your finger is
part of the servo.  Your eyes, ears, and brain are the speed measuring
devices.  Hence, a closed loop servo.

Carl Meyer


--- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: deep plug cutters


> John and list,
>     Please be careful. When you purchase a router speed control unit don't
> get the resistor type. It will burn up your router from developing too
much
> heat. You need the electronic control type which cycles power on and off
in
> millisecond intervals to achieve the desired speed. Routers are expensive,
> (good ones that is).
>
> Greg
>
> John R Fortiner wrote:
>
> > Ron - You are trying to spend too much.  Router Speed control
#43060-1BPA
> > from Harbor Freight - $19.99.  15A capacity. harborfreight.com
> >
> > John R. Fortiner
> > Billings, MT.
> >
> > On Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:41:35 -0600 Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@KSCABLE.com>
> > writes:
> > >
> > > Just found something else of interest(?) on this site.
> > >
> > >
> >
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/spe
> > edc
> > > on.html
> > >
> > > It's a $28.95 router speed control, if anyone is looking for such a
> > > thing
> > > for rotary needle voicing, voicing iron control, or whatever. The
> > > price is
> > > right.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ron N
> > >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
> --
> Greg Newell
> Greg's Piano Forté
> 12970 Harlon Ave.
> Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> 216-226-3791
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>