Pinblock Plugs

Meyer Carl cmpiano@home.com
Tue, 13 Mar 2001 20:08:09 -0800


This has been a great thread.  Lots of opinions (some differing).  I
commented earlier and would like to add some to it.

First I agree that it is very important to have a structurally firm block.
That's why I always seal the bottom of the block with foam, wax paper etc.
and fill the tuning pin holes with epotec 301 or other thin epoxy.  Warm up
the block for proper capillary action and let cure.

I agree that larger plugs would be desirable.  I used 3/8 inch since I
didn't want to remove the plate.  The holes in the plate were just a sqinch
less than 3/8, so it worked great.  The plate had been bronzed and
reinstalled by the previous rebuilder before he died.  I also wanted to have
the pins be at 90 degrees from the floor to make it easier to string.  That
was one of the reasons I plugged the block.  I've done several uprights
without plugging by just filling and drilling using number 3 or 4 pins.

My 1 1/2" plug cutter cost over 50 dollars.  I'm glad to find that I can get
a tenon cutter twice as long for half the price.  I'm probably going to buy
some and see if they will hold up.

As to glue.  I did use titebond for a couple of blocks without any trouble
yet, but I agree epoxy may be the best choice.

I appreciated all the good discussion.

Carl Meyer



----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugs


> No, I suppose it is not a "fit". But it was the way I did it. I may not do
> it again. I don't know that it is the best way to do it. I don't know that
> it is a bad way to do it. A tighter fit would use less material. I was
> experimenting and the little bit bigger gap allowed the thick epoxy
mixture
> to ooze back out the top. A tighter fit did not allow the thickened epoxy
to
> work its way out the top. I posted it more to make a statement about epoxy
> and gap filling. The pinblock was solid as a rock (or at least rock
maple).
> And that is what epoxy does best - you can make a very high strength
> gap-filling bond between wooden parts.
>
> Terry Farrell
> Piano Tuning & Service
> Tampa, Florida
> mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jon Page" <jonpage@mediaone.net>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugs
>
>
> > At 08:22 PM 03/13/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> > >When I have plugged and used epoxy, I used the West System with a
fairly
> > >thick mixture of their #??? high-strength adhesive filler. I made the
> holes
> > >bigger than the plugs so that there was a gap between plug and block
> > >material. I probably drilled a 9/16" hole for a 1/2" plug. I did that
> > >because I was concerned about keeping glue on all areas of the plug. I
> > >feared areas of no glue if I went for a tight fit with some other kind
of
> > >glue/adhesive. Maybe its not realistic concern. But hey, for me, it
was.
> > >
> > >Terry Farrell
> >
> > Drill a hole 1/16" larger???  That is not a 'fit'. A sixty-fourth over
> > would be sufficient.
> > Actually, the wobble created in a 1/2" bit might be enough to over-size
> the
> > hole.
> >
> > Myself, I drill a 1/2" hole for a 1/2" pin block plug.  However I
> > drill   -1/64"  for
> > key stick plugs.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jon Page,   piano technician
> > Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
> > mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >
> >
>
>



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