removing bridge pins that have been EPOXIED!!!!!

[David Love]

Dale:

A legitimate consideratin.

David Love


>From: "Erwinpiano" <Erwinpiano@email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
>To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Subject: Re:removing bridge pins that have been EPOXIED!!!!!
>Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 06:48:30 -0800
>
>    Regards To List
>
>        For all you epoxing whirlwinds out there who just can't wait to 
>glue
>all those bridge pins back in place let me issue a word of caution.  I hope
>when all those bridges need to have the caps replaced that you all are the
>ones that have the unfortunate displeasure of removing them.
>
>   Although the tonal results are improved by epoxy repair may I humbly
>suggest that what the bridge really neededis new wood.    Not only that but
>in most cases it's only the very top of the  pinhole that's the problem  
>and
>if epoxy is used  (I) try to focus the application at the point. No doubt
>many of you have used the C. A. glues for this as I have and when I do am
>still trying to keep it at the top although this is difficult.
>
>  I realize that new wood is not always feasible and the quality of many
>pianos  will never warrant a new board or bridge so epoxy away.  I have 
>done
>it  myself many times.  But for Steinways Masons etc that is where new wood
>would be warranted above the rest.
>
>     My shop has recently contracted a bellyjob on an Swy O that has the 
>pins
>all but permanently installed in with epoxy.  Usually if the bridges are
>getting caps the pins are loose and the wood degraded and the pins easily
>removed.  Not so if the pins are epoxied in and  it can be next to
>impossible to remove.
>  On this O I almost considered cutting off the top half of the bridge 
>below
>the pins and  because the pins were SSSSOOOOOOOO DERN TIGHT. yes I'm
>shouting.  Was greatly incensed with the makers of epoxy at that moment.
>Instead of the usual you know hr. or hr. and a half to remove these, it 
>took
>four torturous hours of heating the pins/bridge to the point of blackening
>the bridge top to get them out. We were using the offset nosed vise grips
>and the appropriately placed pry blocks which saved my  hands from a
>permanent case of carpo tunnel and minmized the bruises and swelling.
>  Fortunately there is enough left of the bridge caps to get a pattern
>although I do have others fortunately.  I'm billing the tech an extra $200
>for the trouble and in the future will make it a point to ask if the pins
>have been permanately installed. If the answer is yes I think I'll just
>offer them a $2oo.oo discount and let them do the removal and I'm betin
>there will be some twice thinking bout epoxy repairin after that.
>
>    My last heritical note is that I loathe having to use epoxy it's such
>nasty messy stuff. That being said I'm aware that it has many uses but for
>me it's a last resort.  My goal in the shop is to use  easily reversable
>procedures so the next guy isn't cussin at me. (It could be me) I.E. Epoxy
>is not required for pin block installation unless you've got a bad fit
>oooopps.  Hide glue or tightbond works well there and cold hide my usual
>glue of choice.
>
>      Heritically and humbly submitted
>      Dale Erwin
>
>

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