Good stuff, thank you. Newton "John M. Formsma" wrote: > > Newton, > > <<I use a flattened upright hammer shank, sanded much like a screwdriver. > This goes through a hole in a baby food jar to rest in the glue but the > hole is just large enough for the shank to go through so the excess glue is > squeegeed off the shank. The flattened part of the shank determines how > much glue you get. The hole in the jar helps prevent evaperation and > skimming. Just remove the jar from the hot water and put a holeless lid on > it. It will keep for weeks and weeks and can be put into the microwave for > ten to twenty seconds and you have glue ready to go, almost instantly.>> > > I've used a flattened shank, but have not got around to making the baby food > jar thingee. I think I like the brush that I use better, but I'll know more > the more rebushing I do. So far, I've done four, and that is not enough to > know everything yet. ;-) > > <<BUT you need to pick your cloth so the caul fits snug in the hole > during gluing. How snug? Snug enough that you have to push it in but not > so snug as to split a sharp mortise.>> > > I was looking through the Reprint CD a few days ago, and Spurlock suggests > snug enough that one can pick up the keystick, and 2-3 small shakes will > allow the caul to come out. > > <<Those mortises were cut in the key factory. It would be wonderful to get > some of these piece so we could unbush keys more quickly, accurately and > size the holes perfectly, all with one plunge. Anybody?!?!?!?>> > > I use Spurlock's mortise sizing caul, which is placed in the mortise right > after the bushing is removed. It sizes as the mortise dries. > > John Formsma > Blue Mountain, MS > > mailto:jformsma@dixie-net.com
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