Newton Hunt wrote: > Hi Richard, > > Those down weights are NOT heavy. Balance weights are "normal". I think you need to > do a good regulation and then check things out. Not DOWN weights...grin.. frontweights... the only reason suspect them is that I have compared them to Stannwoods guide to maximum front weights... and they are heavier then those... by 3 to 8 grams I think I found out... in anycase they are above Stannwoods recommended maximums. > > Take hammer shanks off and swing them. Just because you put dope in them don't > assume they are high. Measure, measure, measure. Do the same for the wippen > flanges. Pull a key sideways and move it up and down against the front pin. If you > feel any drag at all you need to repolish the pins. All this is done first time through. Hammers after proteck swing 7 to 9 times... plenty loose. Tap test for whippen flanges... again plenty loose. Pins are slik as willys..er..wait.. anyways they are fine. I think I have some drag centering around the knuckle / jack relationship.. I will know when I start regulating I suppose. Friction is pretty much under 15 all the way... shouldnt be tooooo bad there... I thought there were some odd unevenesses... C4 for example has some weird numbers compared to the rest... high front weight.... accompanied by a drop in BW of course... sticks out like a sore thumb really. Then also F4 C5... front weights here dont tail off much from the middle of the key board... the strike weights for these curve off slower then a Stannwood curve would, and it looks like they used this combination to "force" the BW to tail off. But then that tendency is reversed again in the last octave... where BW rises after FWs tail rather suddenly off.. but remain well above Stannwoods recommendations for maximums... > > didnt look to closly at it cus there's > > nothing I can do to change it anyways. > > That is not entirely true. Take a small piece of veneer and slip it behind the top > of the wippen flange. This will increase the spread a little. Take up and down > measurements carefully before and after. what you want is the narrowest difference > between the U & D. If it disimproves then you are barking up the wrong rail. Grin... thats too time consuming for this job...and I can only go one way with that proceedure. I suppose I could take a look at it tho. I'll let you know more tommorrow, but in the first instance I will be doing friction things and very moderate SW reduction.... the rest is for diagnose.. I get to play with this piano a lot in the future....:) Thanks for the good advice as always Newton... nite nite.. -- Richard Brekne RPT, N.P.T.F. Bergen, Norway mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no
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