There are easier-to-use products out there. Black shoe dye for staining the ebony black, and then either spray with lacquer to finish or use an hand-applied oil finish like I do. Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kjell Sverre Fardal" <ksfardal@online.no> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 4:05 AM Subject: SV: Black Ebonies -----Opprinnelig melding----- Fra: Kjell Sverre Fardal [mailto:ksfardal@online.no] Joe, I made a little test on a piece of pinewood today, it`s easier to see the colors than on ebony. Just give me a replay if you want me to e-mail you a picture (too many Kb for the list...) As Linda and Richard says, be avare of ev. dangers with this stuff... Anilinechloride and Coppersulfa are known as components used for coloring clothes (not wool) for generations. It will not be bleached by sunlight. I suppose that the workers, dealing with huge baths with this (back in the old days), may got some problems. For a set of ebony keys, you will only use a few millilitres... But, be careful! I always do this in a ventilated room (normally used for spray-laquering), avoiding the stuff to reach my skin. Sorry, I can`t tell any more spesific about ev. dangers (but I wouldn`t exaggerate the dangers of a few millilitres handled with sensibility...). Kjell -----Opprinnelig melding----- Fra: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]På vegne av Joseph Garrett Sendt: 7. mai 2001 21:31 Til: pianotech@ptg.org Emne: Re: Black Ebonies Kjell, Very interesting. Have not heard of this one, before. I'm definately going to try it. It looks like there are some pretty nasty chemicals in it, however, so I'm going to procede cautiously. I'll know if the "translation" is ok, when I give the formula to the pharmacist. :-) Thanks for the info Regards, Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon) p.s. I did print it out, so I'll have something to refer to. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kjell Sverre Fardal" <ksfardal@online.no> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 12:10 AM Subject: Black Ebonies > List! > > After some interesting (the informations given by Bill Bremmer were of great > interest to me...!), and some humourous responds about yellow ivory, I would > like to ask you what you do with the black (ebony) keys! > > In my workshop (est.1930) we have done this for years in the following way: > > 1. Clean the ebony (soap / water) > > 2. Sand them to a smooth surface (400 - paper / ev. 240 first) > > 3. Apply liquid A) (recipe given below...), and let dry (30 - 60 > min.) > > 4. Apply liquid B) (recipe given below...), and let dry (30 - 60 > min.) > > 5. Use steelwool (very fine!) and vaseline-oil to get a smooth surface. > > 6. Wipe off oil with a dry cloth. > > If it`s real ebony (or other woods with equivalent qualities), they should > now have a nice black satin surface (also with a good "touch-feeling" for > the pianist...). > > > Liquid A): 100 gr. Anilinechloride > 900 gr. Water ("aqua purificata") > > Liquid B): 50 gr. Coppersulfa > 100 gr. Potassium Dichromat > > to be resolved (decomposed?) in > > 700 gr. Water ("aqua purificata"), > > then added > > 150 gr. Hydrochloric acid 2 M > > I hope my translations from Norwegian are correct...! (I just give the > recipe to our local pharmacist, and he makes 1 litre of each...) > > You can ev. do the following test on a piece of wood (spruce f.i.): > > Apply A): you get a sort of yellow color. > Apply B): " " " " > Applyt A) + B) on the same spot: a nice, deep black color will arise! > > Do you use any methods like this in the US, or is it just a Eureopean > variant? > > Just beeing curious... > > Kjell Sverre > > > Kjell Sverre Fardal, NPTF / Europiano > ksfardal@online.no > Kristiansand / Norway > > > > >
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