I think that the milky haze is the very fine scratches that need to be buffed out with a compound. Jeff Jewitt sold me a two step compound from a company called Menzerna. Might want to call him on it. Greg Farrell wrote: > Hi Mark. My first PSL piano - after a lot of sanding orange peel - has > turned out quite nice. One question regarding the final rub-down for a satin > finish. I sanded through with 400 grit fre-cut gold, followed by 600, and > then 800 grit. Then I rubbed it down with the medium (gray - 400 grit type) > 3M Scotch-Bright pad. Most of it looks real good, but some areas (maybe > where I rubbed a little harder) have a bit of a milky appearance. It is > definately not the clear finish that is milky - it was very clear before > sanding - but rather a bit of a milky haze apparently from the final rub-out > with the Scotch-Bright pad. Any ideas how to fix? How do you do your final > satin rub-outs on the Oxford PSL? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <bases-loaded@juno.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:13 AM > Subject: Re: 3M sandpaper > > Hi Greg - > > I have used the 216U paper you refer to exclusively for the last 4 pianos > I have refinished, and I find it to easily be the best paper I have ever > used. I also have used Oxford's Premium Spray Lacquer on many occasions > and have not had the trouble that you experienced. I have found that it > can be sanded safely, although somewhat gently, after a couple hours with > no problem whatsoever. Rubbing out after the final coats, though, is > another matter. At least a week is preferred, and two is even better, > IMHO. > > I can only surmise that either: > > 1. the coat you applied was extremely heavy, in less than ideal > conditions, and still had a soft belly after 24 hours; > 2. There was a contaminant left on the board that didn't allow the PSL > to dry properly; > 3. You are pushing down way too hard when sanding. > > It is a good idea when sanding finishes between coats with dry paper to > keep a piece of T-shirt handy to wipe off any accumulation on the paper > every so often. It will flake right off and prevent any build-up that > will compromise your paper's ability to provide a good, even scratch > pattern. For the same reasons, wiping off the surface you are sanding of > accumulated sanding dust is also beneficial. > > Mark Potter > bases-loaded@juno.com > > On Wed, 16 May 2001 00:28:36 -0400 Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> > writes: > > Dear Lists, > > Not too terribly recently I read of the benefits of 3M's fre-cut > > gold sand paper. I recently bought some from Jeff Jewitt who told me > > to > > use it between coats of Oxford Premium spray lacquer. I found that > > it > > began to remove some material and that material then balled up and > > began > > to cut grooves in my new soundboard finish! YIKES! I waited at least > > 24 > > hrs before sanding between coats. Should i have waited longer? Is > > there > > a better way to use this highly acclaimed product? Are there > > different > > uses for this paper rather than between coats? I assume that it is > > used > > dry as it is a paper backing. Is that right? All was saved with a > > scotchbrite pad and some careful rubbing. I applied the decal and am > > now > > ready at my next opportunity to spray over it. So far it looks > > great! > > > > Greg > > -- > > Greg Newell > > Greg's Piano Forté > > 12970 Harlon Ave. > > Lakewood, Ohio 44107 > > 216-226-3791 > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > > > -- Greg Newell Greg's Piano Forté 12970 Harlon Ave. Lakewood, Ohio 44107 216-226-3791 mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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