> It is also possible that the wire is not traveling straight through the >axis of the guide bushing. (See the Jolly article inre dampers and their >wires, Roger has a good perspective on this bit of geometry!)_ >Regards, >Ed Foote RPT > Hi Ed, Thank's for the compliment, one remark like that makes the efforts worth while. With regard to reaming bushings. I will make some general statements. 1. Techs are too quick to ream the bushing, or bend the wires by the guess and stab method.( Bin thar, done that, and bought the Tee shirt.) 2. Fix your thinking to clean vertical movements. 3. Analyze and trouble shoot the real cause of the problem. Now to trouble shoot the problem. 1. Remove the damper. I use a mute between the dag and lift tray so the damper will go back in with the same timing. 2. Use the end of the damper wire to verify if the bushing is tight. If it is , heat the end of the wire with a Bic lighter and burnish the bushing cloth, polish the bushing cloth area of the wire. Reinstall and check the operation. If it was the bushing, it will be free. 3. If the damper is still sluggish. Lay the side of the damper block firmly on the stretcher, and check for all planes to be parallel with the stretcher. But money this will show a problem. Yes that easy.Now you can bend the wire to correct. Next sit the damper felt on the stretcher and check the wire is plumb front to back. Flex the wire to make it square. 4. Reinstall the damper, making sure that the wire slides easily into the lifter,, and that the lifter is parallel with the wire. If it is not, bend to correct. Remember to bend twice. Once to move the wire over, then to bring every thing back to parallel. Rotating the flange can be the oft over looked caused. 5. Once the wire/ guide relationship is clean now start the bends at the head, same double bending technique. . Hope this is helpful. A bit short. It's 6 chapters in the Journal. THINK YOUR WAY through the problem. Don't stab. I love damper work. <G> A converted stab in the dark artist. Regards Roger
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