This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment List, Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just = started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine. I = acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine. The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to = route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide = and some use a sanding disc. What's the consensus out there? Also what is the keytop cement of choice. I was introduced to using = acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity = consistently. Within 30 seconds the bond is strong. The downside is = you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere = near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred. So bring it on. Would be interested in your comments on learning the = tricks of the trade. Tom Servinsky,RPT ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jon Page=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM Subject: Re: Planer and keytops At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote: For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer = in a radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, = while the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways = forces much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). = Most RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered. Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out = I grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing = clearance by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed = slow, should work fine. Adjustable parallels for set up. > electric planer Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, = there's so little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to invite disaster. Clark=20 What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it = leaves at the end of the plastic. A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough = material for the new keytop to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job. Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net http://www.stanwoodpiano.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/60/c2/d2/44/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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