Keytop routing techniques

[Tom Servinsky]

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List,
Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just =
started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I =
acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.
The question I have is seems to be finding  the safest and best way to =
route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide =
and some use a sanding disc.
What's the consensus out there?
Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using =
acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity =
consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is =
you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere =
near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred.
So bring it on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the =
tricks of the trade.
Tom Servinsky,RPT
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jon Page=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM
  Subject: Re: Planer and keytops


  At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:

    For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer =
in a
    radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, =
while
    the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways =
forces
    much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). =
Most
    RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered.

    Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out =
I
    grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing =
clearance
    by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed =
slow,
    should work fine.

    Adjustable parallels for set up.

    > electric planer

    Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, =
there's so
    little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to
    invite disaster.
    Clark=20

  What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it =
leaves at the end of the plastic.
  A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough =
material for the new keytop
  to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job.

  Regards,


  Jon Page,   piano technician
  Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
  mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net
  http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=20

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